TESORO GOLDEN SABRE

[Max]

Thanks Max.
Yes, my connections were wrong (shame on me), and this means that my coils were tx and rx signal with the coil and of course the foil (WRONG). Now i m shure that the signal is tx and rx the rigth way, and the shield is really working has it was design (shielding).
I don´t know if i ll have the time to work today on golden sabre, but saturday for shure i ll. Weather for this weekend looks fine, so after i get the 22 cms coil working, i will go outside to make some field test.
ohh i forgot, when you place a coin close to one side of the coils, is it normal to detect it? i ask this because when i connected the coil the wrong way, all kinds of coins that where close to one side of the coil, were detected and this confirm my idea that the tx signal was radiated by the coil and also the shield.

Best regards and thanks to all for helpping me to get this nice machine working.

Nelson

Hi Nelson,
when you near some metal object to coil (not only DD type) and your magnetic field is unbalanced you get signal from detector, so it's normal having sound also on sides, but at very close distance and with enough umbalance due to target. But in DD the most senvitive portion is just under overlapping zone (in the middle). So you can e.g. on the field "pinpoint" targets , when have multiple sounds also on edges, just raising coil a bit to make side signals disappear, then using middle of coil to find exact "line" where target is.

On BandidoII there's another additional choice... one could push the auto-tune to "set" a minimum level of detection, then pinpoint with little movements (very good on concentric open centre coils).

Best regards,
Max

[Max]

I'm on the way...


PS: do you see the RED tantalium cap ?

[Nihil Roma Maius]

So do I. But difference between me and you is that I don't sell SNAKE OIL as light.

But, I think you really miss much other "experts" that were ridiculized here cause of crappy thinking and snake-oil companies support and selling... and all we know who they are. Call Damaso to join the team if you feel alone!
Or are just you Mr. Damaso , hiding back the imperial stamp ???
What a huge number of south american business ruined all that LRL fakes talking here !!??

I don't advertise anything, don't try to sell anything, just share my opinions with others and just to learn and for fun cause I'm an entusiast TH and MD owner.

I don't need to sell LRL-dreams (or nightmares) to live. Like someone else do here... but that's fine, you keep stay in business.

You could sell to belivers your stuff, your BS, whatever... but don't try to put me at same level of you and others belonging to the LRL-tribe.

We are not the same.

* * * * * * * * *

Who tell you I sell devices? CRAZY!!! First prejudice, you're blind!

I don't sell any LRL device, also I'm enthusiast like you, so you're bad informed, YOU'RE CONFUSED.

No need to be of the Third World, your malicious and poisonus style is characteristics of bad person.

If you use this down language in your IW, I prefer stay in the IIIW, here in SA.

Psss! Max, do you can build correct coils?

[nakky]

Max do you see it

[ivconic]

Audio..

I see, at the end we all have success with this nice detector! Bravo!
I took my TGS Light outdoor yesterday, to make some serious tests...
Results are very good...excellent. Same 1cm nickel coin (i mentioned so
many times) it can detect at 27cm in the ground - burried. Very good
results. I am very satisfied.
Dont want to repeat myself oftenly, so this will be all about testing.
Next step:
Next step should be serious improvement of audio stage. I dont want to make
it only louder. Also dont want to add Zahori audio...
I was thinking to find proper way to add vco audio.
Have you ever tried Fisher CZ5 or CZ7?
Do you know how its audio working? Is it only vco or something more?
I have Jackdetect's schematics of CZ5...but it is hand drawing, pretty sloppy.
I am not sure how to use it or even can i use it with TGS?
Never mind CZ5 audio. I just mentioned it as example.
Is there any schematic of audio stage which will allow us to adjust level of
signal needed to "open" or "close" audio to produce sound or not?

For example,sort of filter or "compressor" with which we can supress or
"reject" weak signals with unknown origin and pass only good, known signals
to audio stage.
I have Troy Shadow X3. Most favorite thing at it (for me) is thing i noticed
many times:
Let's say it will detect coin at 25cm. Audio is very strong and clear (unlike
TGS with weak, mum audio). There is a sort of fast,"double" beep-beep on Troy
when coin moved over coil. How can i explain? My english is not so good, i have
problems to explain this thing.
TGS is working very good, it is so obvious,but main drawback is in audio;same,
monotonous,annoying.....I can not be sure whether small or large coin was detected?
While with Troy i can distinguish almost for sure about coin size or even alloy
according to audio! Of course this need a bit of practice, hours of working with
device...same was when i owned 1266. I could "see" detected item with almost 90%
accuracy relying on audio. There is something "rich" in that audio, which TGS
doesnt have...
Also, when earphones are used on TGS; audio is much stronger but "BLUR"...not
sharp as on Troy or Fisher...Why?
Is there any way,mod,tip,hint so we can improve this at TGS. This should be last
step. If we manage this somehow, TGS will turn to one of the best detectors i have
been seen so far!
I'll wait your opinions.

Where is KT315? He is full of suprises, always! C'mon KT315! Save the day!
And Sean Goddard...? C'mon Sean!
Let's togather make best analogue coin detector ever!
We should call it : "Geotech metal detector"!

P.S.
I was thinking to put 0.01-0.1 coupling capacitors at every supply pin on every ic.
Nets should be shortest possible, between caps and pins, of course!
This should provide extra filtering on ic's. Is it worth it? Any experiences?

P.S.
Max;
"...Hi ivconic,
I think lm339 mod would work great. I have some dubts on TL082 instead of two LM308...
these dubts is related to hi-fi audio circuits experiments I've made with dual op.
amps... never get good results where there dual pramp... and expecially TL0x2 series...
but they aren't preamp there."

Yes Max, i know what do you mean! In the past, i made a lot of preamplifiers...some
for guitars, some distortions,wah-wah's etc....Already used TL082 so many times.
TL082 can be meticolous from case to case. Instead working good it can produce
bedlam of noises....mostly depends of surrounding components.
I was thinking; the only replacement for LM308 turns to be TL081a...and when you
put two of them togather, what do you get? TL082...
Maybe i am wrong, but i think TL082 would do the job just fine. I would like to
avoid LM308 in next detectors cose it is a bit obsolete,expensive and mostly very
hard to find in local shops.....
I'll make one and experiment a bit. Later will report here....

[ivconic]

...

Nakky, i was thinking on this resistor...
Also, later add parallel 1M to diode...as KT315 described..
Regards!

[J_Player]

Hi Ivconic,

I cannot help with the best circuit mod for audio. But I can tell you that when you use good quality headphones, you will have better response from any audio circuit. I use headphones on my PI detectors and VLF because I find twice as many targets. I rely on headphone sound to determine size and depth of target, and type of metal. I only look at VLF meter when not certain about target. When you use headphones you can hear the very weak signals that sometimes you cannot see on the meters or hear from simple speaker on the box. The headphones will also eliminate most of the outside noise from wind and other sounds. Also I see the batteries are running much longer when I use headphones.

Best wishes,
J_P

[nakky]

Right

J_P you are right

[Delbert grady]

non polarised caps

I do believe it is possible to make the non polarised 4.7 uf out of two 4.7 uf polarised caps. just solder the two negative leads together.

[Max]

So do I. But difference between me and you is that I don't sell SNAKE OIL as light.

But, I think you really miss much other "experts" that were ridiculized here cause of crappy thinking and snake-oil companies support and selling... and all we know who they are. Call Damaso to join the team if you feel alone!
Or are just you Mr. Damaso , hiding back the imperial stamp ???
What a huge number of south american business ruined all that LRL fakes talking here !!??

I don't advertise anything, don't try to sell anything, just share my opinions with others and just to learn and for fun cause I'm an entusiast TH and MD owner.

I don't need to sell LRL-dreams (or nightmares) to live. Like someone else do here... but that's fine, you keep stay in business.

You could sell to belivers your stuff, your BS, whatever... but don't try to put me at same level of you and others belonging to the LRL-tribe.

We are not the same.

* * * * * * * * *

Who tell you I sell devices? CRAZY!!! First prejudice, you're blind!

I don't sell any LRL device, also I'm enthusiast like you, so you're bad informed, YOU'RE CONFUSED.

No need to be of the Third World, your malicious and poisonus style is characteristics of bad person.

If you use this down language in your IW, I prefer stay in the IIIW, here in SA.

Psss! Max, do you can build correct coils?

Hi,
you are just another mask of very same people.

All you write say that. No need of further explaination of what you're.

Have a good time,
Max

[Max]

Nice!

[ApBerg]

Goldy

Hello Frends.

Here the sprint layout file from Goldy, if there are errors in it please adjust them and mail it back on this board.

Good luck.

[Max]

I do believe it is possible to make the non polarised 4.7 uf out of two 4.7 uf polarised caps. just solder the two negative leads together.

Hi,
use 10uF electrolitics , you'll get 5uF bipolar.
See ivconic drawing on first pages of thread.

Kind regards,
Max

[Max]

Hello Frends.

Here the sprint layout file from Goldy, if there are errors in it please adjust them and mail it back on this board.

Good luck.

Hi ApBerg,
many thanks, it's really good work.
Now I'm making full version. Then maybe I'll do Goldy!

Best regards,
Max

[Max]

I see, at the end we all have success with this nice detector! Bravo!
I took my TGS Light outdoor yesterday, to make some serious tests...
Results are very good...excellent. Same 1cm nickel coin (i mentioned so
many times) it can detect at 27cm in the ground - burried. Very good
results. I am very satisfied.
Dont want to repeat myself oftenly, so this will be all about testing.
Next step:
Next step should be serious improvement of audio stage. I dont want to make
it only louder. Also dont want to add Zahori audio...
I was thinking to find proper way to add vco audio.
Have you ever tried Fisher CZ5 or CZ7?
Do you know how its audio working? Is it only vco or something more?
I have Jackdetect's schematics of CZ5...but it is hand drawing, pretty sloppy.
I am not sure how to use it or even can i use it with TGS?
Never mind CZ5 audio. I just mentioned it as example.
Is there any schematic of audio stage which will allow us to adjust level of
signal needed to "open" or "close" audio to produce sound or not?

For example,sort of filter or "compressor" with which we can supress or
"reject" weak signals with unknown origin and pass only good, known signals
to audio stage.
I have Troy Shadow X3. Most favorite thing at it (for me) is thing i noticed
many times:
Let's say it will detect coin at 25cm. Audio is very strong and clear (unlike
TGS with weak, mum audio). There is a sort of fast,"double" beep-beep on Troy
when coin moved over coil. How can i explain? My english is not so good, i have
problems to explain this thing.
TGS is working very good, it is so obvious,but main drawback is in audio;same,
monotonous,annoying.....I can not be sure whether small or large coin was detected?
While with Troy i can distinguish almost for sure about coin size or even alloy
according to audio! Of course this need a bit of practice, hours of working with
device...same was when i owned 1266. I could "see" detected item with almost 90%
accuracy relying on audio. There is something "rich" in that audio, which TGS
doesnt have...
Also, when earphones are used on TGS; audio is much stronger but "BLUR"...not
sharp as on Troy or Fisher...Why?
Is there any way,mod,tip,hint so we can improve this at TGS. This should be last
step. If we manage this somehow, TGS will turn to one of the best detectors i have
been seen so far!
I'll wait your opinions.

Where is KT315? He is full of suprises, always! C'mon KT315! Save the day!
And Sean Goddard...? C'mon Sean!
Let's togather make best analogue coin detector ever!
We should call it : "Geotech metal detector"!

P.S.
I was thinking to put 0.01-0.1 coupling capacitors at every supply pin on every ic.
Nets should be shortest possible, between caps and pins, of course!
This should provide extra filtering on ic's. Is it worth it? Any experiences?

P.S.
Max;
"...Hi ivconic,
I think lm339 mod would work great. I have some dubts on TL082 instead of two LM308...
these dubts is related to hi-fi audio circuits experiments I've made with dual op.
amps... never get good results where there dual pramp... and expecially TL0x2 series...
but they aren't preamp there."

Yes Max, i know what do you mean! In the past, i made a lot of preamplifiers...some
for guitars, some distortions,wah-wah's etc....Already used TL082 so many times.
TL082 can be meticolous from case to case. Instead working good it can produce
bedlam of noises....mostly depends of surrounding components.
I was thinking; the only replacement for LM308 turns to be TL081a...and when you
put two of them togather, what do you get? TL082...
Maybe i am wrong, but i think TL082 would do the job just fine. I would like to
avoid LM308 in next detectors cose it is a bit obsolete,expensive and mostly very
hard to find in local shops.....
I'll make one and experiment a bit. Later will report here....

Hi ivconic,
yes, tesoro's lack in some audio, at least the uMax series... you know, there are some with even four tone id also, but not GSabre.
Monotonous tone as BandidoII. I know.
About the audio power you could wire up an audio amp. ic. even TBA820 would be fine here... but if you have bleeping too often in headphones or speaker means you need something more.

"
For example,sort of filter or "compressor" with which we can supress or
"reject" weak signals with unknown origin and pass only good, known signals
to audio stage.
I have Troy Shadow X3. Most favorite thing at it (for me) is thing i noticed
many times:
Let's say it will detect coin at 25cm. Audio is very strong and clear (unlike
TGS with weak, mum audio). "

Yes, know what you mean. I think that good circuit could be a schmitt trigger... you use a pot. to fix threashold, then everything lower would be ignored, anything above cause saturation of trigger so this way you'll gain only "sure" (stronger) signals , cutting out false or undef due to noise or bleeping.

"Also, when earphones are used on TGS; audio is much stronger but "BLUR"...not
sharp as on Troy or Fisher...Why?"

Cause tesoro always preferred use direct "threshold" not triggers in analog detctors... it's a good choice e.g. when audio is strong and there's not much bleeping, but on tesoro's it's a drawback cause audio is weak and you could have bleeping (on bandidoII is the same thing).

"I was thinking to put 0.01-0.1 coupling capacitors at every supply pin on every ic.
Nets should be shortest possible, between caps and pins, of course!
This should provide extra filtering on ic's. Is it worth it? Any experiences?"

Good thing, but no big results. Useful e.g. to avoid noise propagation from voltage converter to ic. if too much. Also 22nf works pretty good.

"I was thinking; the only replacement for LM308 turns to be TL081a...and when you
put two of them togather, what do you get? TL082..."

Yes, right: also on tables this is the indication (but I'll try some other ic, sure that could work better). As you said main problem is PCB... components around, noise coupling, parass. capacitance due e.g. to flux etc
I had some troubles on Bandido with flux... just under TLC2262, kind of coupling. Then removed and some bleeping disappears.

Unfortunately, I haven't kester solder wire with water solvable flux... (as Gary suggested) , cannot find here. Big problem is that I need lot of solvents/chemicals to remove "well" any flux.

How do you remove flux ?

Best regards,
Max