Nautilius metal detectors

[nelson]

Hi to all.
Does anyone know how this detectors perfom?

http://www.southern-treasures.com/nautilus_page_1.htm

Regards

Nelson

[Qiaozhi]

Hi to all.
Does anyone know how this detectors perfom?

http://www.southern-treasures.com/nautilus_page_1.htm

Regards

Nelson

Have a look at these reviews ->
http://metaldetectorreviews.net/dete...ilusdmc2b.html
http://metaldetectorreviews.net/dete...lusdmc2ba.html

[nelson]

Yes i saw it and seems to be good machines too.
The at first look the only thing i dont like is the quantity of bateries they use.

Regards
Nelson

Have a look at these reviews ->
http://metaldetectorreviews.net/dete...ilusdmc2b.html
http://metaldetectorreviews.net/dete...lusdmc2ba.html

[Qiaozhi]

Yes i saw it and seems to be good machines too.
The at first look the only thing i dont like is the quantity of bateries they use.

Regards
Nelson

Personally I think it appears like a well made home project, rather than a professional machine. I suppose it's the vintage look.

[Carl-NC]

Nautilus makes outstanding relic detectors, even though they don't have a polished look. The "Treasure Depot" web site puts on the annual "GNRS" hunt which is essentially a brand competition in relic hunting. Nautilus has been skunking the big boys for the last few years. They're made in my home state of North Carolina. Been wanting to visit the company.

- Carl

[nelson]

Hi Carl, good to heard you.
Is nice to heard that, so may be you can tell us a little more about nautilius detectors performance.
Tomorrow a friend of mine in traveling to the states, but i m not shure wich brand to buy.
Troy detectors looks fine to me too, but are a little more expensive.
I need a simple machine, with good discrimination, that can find a coin very deep.
Tesoro vaquero looks good too.
Or finally should i just continue building my own detectors cause not good diferencies are show btw homemade and a brand detectors?
What your experience can tell me?
Regards
Nelson

Nautilus makes outstanding relic detectors, even though they don't have a polished look. The "Treasure Depot" web site puts on the annual "GNRS" hunt which is essentially a brand competition in relic hunting. Nautilus has been skunking the big boys for the last few years. They're made in my home state of North Carolina. Been wanting to visit the company.

- Carl

[Qiaozhi]

Nautilus makes outstanding relic detectors, even though they don't have a polished look. The "Treasure Depot" web site puts on the annual "GNRS" hunt which is essentially a brand competition in relic hunting. Nautilus has been skunking the big boys for the last few years. They're made in my home state of North Carolina. Been wanting to visit the company.

- Carl

Yes - it would be interesting to visit them in person. There are few of these detectors being sold recently on the UK eBay site, like this one for example ->
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NAUTILUS-DMC-1...QQcmdZViewItem

[ivconic]

This one is interesting to me! I never put outfit on first place. Much more important thing are performances of device. So this looks as interesting to be checked.
One thing is interesting me; those shafts are metalic up to few inches down than continue in short plastic bar connected to coil housing. I always wanted to know exatcly; does proximity of metal shaft has some influence on coil sensitivity,stabillity etc..? Should it be somehow connected to device GND or it doesnt matter? I usually put longer plastic bar,25-40cm between coil and shaft...Although i had Compass Judge II with plastic part just few inches...Other hand, Compass Judge II wasnt "depth killer"...it could detect smaller items at fewinches only...
Next was CScope 1220B with a bit longer Plastic bar (extension)...some 15cm....and showed better performances. Than it was CZ5 with really long plastic part...etc.etc. Now Minelab Sovereign has long plastic part separating significantly coil from metal shaft....? Any sense in this?
Or there is a way to cancel shaft proximity influence on coil...fro example; just simply connecting it to GND or Farady Cage through cable lead..? Just guessing here, not sure...?

[Max]

This one is interesting to me! I never put outfit on first place. Much more important thing are performances of device. So this looks as interesting to be checked.
One thing is interesting me; those shafts are metalic up to few inches down than continue in short plastic bar connected to coil housing. I always wanted to know exatcly; does proximity of metal shaft has some influence on coil sensitivity,stabillity etc..? Should it be somehow connected to device GND or it doesnt matter? I usually put longer plastic bar,25-40cm between coil and shaft...Although i had Compass Judge II with plastic part just few inches...Other hand, Compass Judge II wasnt "depth killer"...it could detect smaller items at fewinches only...
Next was CScope 1220B with a bit longer Plastic bar (extension)...some 15cm....and showed better performances. Than it was CZ5 with really long plastic part...etc.etc. Now Minelab Sovereign has long plastic part separating significantly coil from metal shaft....? Any sense in this?
Or there is a way to cancel shaft proximity influence on coil...fro example; just simply connecting it to GND or Farady Cage through cable lead..? Just guessing here, not sure...?

Hi,
from what I know the plastic part at the end of pole or as end pole part is just an old trick (like plastic wingnut+screw) to keep away influence from metallic pole on nulling of coil...that will reduce sensitivity and stability but in VLFs it serves sure also to avoid unwanted phase shifts due to metallic pole influence.

I noticed that it's influence it's really few with alluminium pole and instead really important if pole is made of steel tubing. In iron/steel stuff usually the end part of pole is made totally by plastic thing for 20cm or more.

In Aluminium ones instead it's just 10-15cm long.

There are other reasons:
The fact now big companies wanna use plastic at the end is also due to the fact coil weights are everyday smaller and smaller... so if coil weight is e.g. 350gr there's no need of metallic end-pole and plastic will be fine. This sums with the fact plastic have no corrosion... so don't need be varnished and also costs less than metal and is lighter too. All good reasons to prefer it to metal in the end part... while using a just all plastic made pole is impossible at low cost cause it will be too flexible respect metal stuff. Good materials, more light and strong, very rigid, will be composite (epoxy+carbonium fibers and the like) ones but cost of them is much higher than aluminium tubing with plastic end... that's why nobody has real interest making stuff this way.

Best regards,
Max

[ivconic]

Thanks Max!

[Qiaozhi]

This one is interesting to me! I never put outfit on first place. Much more important thing are performances of device. So this looks as interesting to be checked.
One thing is interesting me; those shafts are metalic up to few inches down than continue in short plastic bar connected to coil housing. I always wanted to know exatcly; does proximity of metal shaft has some influence on coil sensitivity,stabillity etc..? Should it be somehow connected to device GND or it doesnt matter? I usually put longer plastic bar,25-40cm between coil and shaft...Although i had Compass Judge II with plastic part just few inches...Other hand, Compass Judge II wasnt "depth killer"...it could detect smaller items at fewinches only...
Next was CScope 1220B with a bit longer Plastic bar (extension)...some 15cm....and showed better performances. Than it was CZ5 with really long plastic part...etc.etc. Now Minelab Sovereign has long plastic part separating significantly coil from metal shaft....? Any sense in this?
Or there is a way to cancel shaft proximity influence on coil...fro example; just simply connecting it to GND or Farady Cage through cable lead..? Just guessing here, not sure...?

The metal shaft will cause a change in the amplitude of the residual RX signal, but this will be small if it is spaced away from the search head by a plastic section. In practice its presence does not affect the operation of the detector, since there is no relative motion between the shaft and the coil. On most detectors the shaft is also connected to 0V.

[Carl-NC]

Hi Carl, good to heard you.
Is nice to heard that, so may be you can tell us a little more about nautilius detectors performance.

Of all the detectors I've owned, I've never had a Nautilus, though I intend to correct that very soon. I can only tell you what I've heard from relic hunters, and they have been very successful with them.

Regarding the metal stems, they will affect both balance and phase, but if they don't move relative to the coil then high-pass filters will remove their effect.

- Carl

[nelson]

Hi Carl and thanks for the info.

Now i only need to know if the schematic post here is realy for Nautiluis, cause some people said that is a bab detector, just almost a toy.
Circuit looks very simple.
Regards
Nelson

Of all the detectors I've owned, I've never had a Nautilus, though I intend to correct that very soon. I can only tell you what I've heard from relic hunters, and they have been very successful with them.

Regarding the metal stems, they will affect both balance and phase, but if they don't move relative to the coil then high-pass filters will remove their effect.

- Carl

[Qiaozhi]

There's one on ebay

Of all the detectors I've owned, I've never had a Nautilus, though I intend to correct that very soon. I can only tell you what I've heard from relic hunters, and they have been very successful with them.

Regarding the metal stems, they will affect both balance and phase, but if they don't move relative to the coil then high-pass filters will remove their effect.

- Carl

There's one on the UK eBay site, but it appears to originate in the U.S., if you're interested.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...MEWA:IT&ih=002