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  • Best detector opinions.

    I would like to open this post to see what people Think as a good Metal detector.
    For me is White's 6000 di pro plus old one but still very good on finding coins i love
    the discrimination that this detector have never failed me until now !

    Regards foinikas32.

  • #2
    To me:

    DEEP MAX3 WITH (frame 3m*1m)

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    • #3
      I would also like to see this question addressed......I never saw so many detectors. I'm feeling a lot of them are designed for special and different applications. Minelab has one that goes for $5000.00 !.....ridiculous...Only doctors, lawyers or drug dealers could afford such a piece of equipment. IMHO....anything above $300.00 is for the professionals....if there is such a thing. So you GURU diggers out there....give us your expert opinion. Tell us what kind of soil you're hunting in and what average depths are good......you know....the usual stuff.

      Flash

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Flash1940 View Post
        Minelab has one that goes for $5000.00 !.....ridiculous...Only doctors, lawyers or drug dealers could afford such a piece of equipment.

        ..or people who find gold... Case in point, you can go on YouTube and watch a guy in Austalia dig $20,000 worth of gold over a 2-week period with one of those Minelab PI machines. How many of us can claim that our MDs paid for themselves 4 times over in a 2 week period? I too would want the best in that situation.

        Pretty much any detector under $300 is a sub-entry level detector / border line toy. (Not all of them though, I see some of the Garret Ace series etc. to be under $300, some folks like them.)

        You have to understand that these instruments are fairly expensive due to the smaller numbers made compared to other mainstream electronic devices, that and manufacturers understandably trying to yield as much from their patents as possible.

        The rest of the mainstream detectors are somewhat comparable in depth and differ in their operation, quality etc. It would be very subjective to call one the "best", as one guy likes light MDs, whereas another does not care about weight. One guy wants the most accurate TID, whereas others hunt by sound etc.

        I myself have not tried enough MDs to be able to say what I like best.

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        • #5
          Here I found the video, this makes the Minelab worth every penny to this guy.
          http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showt...ector-opinions

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          • #6
            Thanks for your response....you offer good advice. Years ago I built a Heathkit.....Not very good...I gave it away. I have a Micronta 4003 that didn't sell when I was a Radio Shack Dealer......It is intermittent now....I've been in there trying to find the trouble....no success yet....It is a typical high-production device with a lot of poor Chinese solder joints and poor component quality. I also have a really old White's Alaskan....a two-piece thing....huge....and heavy. It only detects just any metal....no discrimination capability....but it works good as a bottle cap gitter. Would be OK for finding civil war relics or searching where not many people have visited.I found a White's 6000 on Ebay for a reasonable price. It has two batteries. It's due in here in a few days. I anticipate a heavy piece of equipment....but it will likely be a good place for me to start. I can search/dig & find bottle caps while I'm shopping for another one.....or find someone that has a defective one for me to fix. Will be good exercise for an old fart like me. Gonna get me a new pair of knee pads and a treasure bag.....also would like to have one of those little pinpointer thingy's.....
            Flash

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            • #7
              the reason there are so many detectors is due to many factors, the real truth about detectors is that out of all of them old and new there will only be a hand full of detectors that suit your detecting style, the only way is to try out and experiment.
              as for minelab they charge what they like, they could make a sub $500 hobby machine for the masses, but they wont basically because of greed!

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              • #8
                Good and well, but consider: How long it takes digging enough gold to pay back a detector depends on the density of gold in the ground

                The topic of "best" depends on the conditions so much, that it's a real can of worms. Please don't open it carelessly!

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                • #9
                  I think I would like that forearm support. Looks really comfortable to use. I can see one may need to get in shape to do any serious treasure hunting. I'm thinking I will try to recruit my grandson to help with the digging. I'll just place the golf tees....heh...heh...
                  Looking for and gathering junk is a great family activity. When we get tired....we can go and fly one of my RC models.
                  I am thankful for this forum and all the information I can glean from all the posts. I hope that I will have some experiences to share with all of you. Even some of my service tips I will share. Its really amazing the problems that these metal locators can develop. I'm betting that most of them can be attributed to dirt/filth and battery corrosion. Probably seldom deep circuit troubles....except when an inexperienced individual tries to modify the design.
                  Flash

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                  • #10
                    please tell the name of the detectors which you think best,next analyse them and ...
                    thanks

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                    • #11
                      The other day I took a risk and bid on a White's 6000/D....and won it. When it came in....none of the variable controls would move....I mean locked up. So I figured something may have spilled on them.....coffee with sugar....a soda...or simple corrosion. So to the bench....went all the way to removing the double-plated pc board. Acetone on the pot shafts loosened them up pretty well. BTW...if you use acetone...be careful to not splash or spill any of it on your meter or painted housing....it will surely make a mess of it. Here's where I cleaned the pots with some freon-TF I have from an earlier day of working on VCR's. One tine drop of thin oil on the pot shaft.....only one....no more. Now back together to test. Seems to work as per the instruction manual. Maybe after some time with this thing....I'll be able to be able to have more information to contribute. Since I'm a newbie I am unable to say what is normal and what isn't. Anybody else out there with experience with the 6000/D might wish to chime in....

                      Flash

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                      • #12
                        Good job on finding a detector to fix up. I wanted to respond the other day and suggest a few light weight affordable (new) MDs, but the forum was buggy that day.

                        I think a light detector is important for enthusiasts of any age.

                        Since you are in there working, you may even consider mounting the control box on your person, unless the weight does not bother you.

                        Hope you get all the pots loosened up, maybe it was just sand if not they are easy enough to replace with new ones if needed.

                        Depending on the age of the device you may consider replacing the electrolytic capacitors. Though older devices may appear to work fine, they sometimes work better with a re-cap of the electrolytic capacitors.
                        Some older caps become leaky (Electronically speaking), even though they appear to be fine, which may cause poor performance or odd operational characteristics.

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                        • #13
                          Thanks for your response.....I messed around with it yesterday for about two hours out in the yard. Works....but seems to not be very stable....it'll take a spell and go into a pulsating mode....that is the meter & sound swing upward and down in a rhythmic fashion....as if there is a metal object moved toward and away....as if the object was hanging from a pendulum string. I'm suspecting poor voltage regulation.....and maybe a few dried out caps as you suggested. In the 70's and 80's a lot of stuff was manufactured using the lowest grade cap available....tantalums were out of the question.....only the military could afford them. My biggest problem is my own 73 year old body....getting up and down for the dig.....so I must learn to hunt smart.....

                          Flash

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                          • #14
                            That is right hunt smart.

                            Ya myself I would replace the electrolytic caps first, you may not have to do anything else. All the other ones should be fine.

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                            • #15
                              Thanks a bunch....I'll keep you posted with my progress....along with my problems....

                              Flash

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