Jeohunter - Visual Ground Scanner

[Funfinder]

Hi gart,

seems there's a very strong soil mineralisiation where you wanna search.

If you have some dozens of high mineralized bricks you can do this test at home otherwise you have to bury a metal object at some depth and test the ground balance in the "field".

The more mineralisation the more a minus value the Jeohunters ground balance needs for compensation of the EM effects the soil creates.


The 100% balance is just an indicator for the actual best fitting adjustment. But this can change very fast if the ground changes, the higher the mineralisation is, the more sensitivity is used and the more the coil has different distances from the ground while searching. In reality the input of the ground balance value presets the detectors "0 point" inbetween whole range from extremly mineralisation to best detectable metal (=silver cache) or in other words the point from where the phase-shift shall start.

Sorry gart if this was to technical but all what you have to do in the beginning is to enter a negative ground balance value (as example minus 80%) and search at 70% sensitivity on high mineralised ground.

Later with more experience you can get the most sensitivity out of the detector by testing at which ground balance value the Jeohunter remains silent after reset for the largest lifting the coil distance.

At high mineralised sites while ground balancing you should lift the coil to a distance of 10-15 cm above the ground, press the RESEST button and now test how much you can lift and lower the coil until you get a signal (always for ground balancing use a place where shurely no metal is buried). The more distance you can lift the coil up or down the better is the inputed ground balance value. If you found this best value press ACCEPT.

If you like tell me what you wanna find and at what kind of ground so I can give you more precise instructions.

For the beginning take it easy and slowly, search at lower sensitivity and make some buried objects tests first. Good luck!

[Funfinder]

Hey guys where are ya? Everything's all right?

@ geo-i
Today I had some work with the old Jeohunter accus, too.

It uses 3 ultra-bright LEDs via a 22ohm resistor, in total this lamp has 4000mAh @ 3.7v and I guess it will shine for 100-300 hours!

[geo-i]

hello my friend how are you nice flashlight how bright it can goes just wake up for sick bro got a fever my friend sorry about the late news .just finished making accu pack my friend what do you thing about the picture scaning with the joehunters can you descibe it just back from looking for the tresure .

[Funfinder]

Thanks bro for the fast answer!
I hope your fever will go away fast!

And concratulations geo-i !! I see you
have created the two balance-charging connectors!

The Jeohunter accu-pack now should work for a long time.

by the way you can test if all cells are good working:

Wait some days after charging and/or using the Jeohunter and
then test every single cell with a multimeter or by an uV-meter.

Now you can find out if the voltage of some these cells is much
lower than the rest. Those are the bad cells & should changed.

____________________

Your treasure:

This looks very interresting and seems to be a huge find.
It may be something very flat - perhaps it's a copper plate
or hopefully really something out of gold or scattered coins.

Anyway - good job, geo-i - get more such targets and you
will find very fast the big treasure - for shure ! ! !

_____________________

Jeohunter-accu-lamp:

For improved safety (no LED burn outs) and still
longer acculife now I'm using a 68 Ohm resistor.

Therefore the LEDs now consume 2.5v and shine
still pretty bright, around 2/3 of usual LEDlamps.

That improved accu-lamp should shine twice the
time than it was before (now around 200-500h!)
but I'll check this out by an already started test!

[geo-i]

joehunters scanning

thanks you bro for praying for my healty my friend and
thanks you again to be able to assist in joehunters scanning
problem i hope you will guide me to find the bigest tresure .

mr guru

regards
geo-i

[aventurier]

geohunter detect a stone

hi funfinder
what about for my geohunter,?it detect one of stone at 20cm after good calibration ground
the signal in lcd is iron!

[Funfinder]

Yeah, geo-i, sending you my best health wishes, but now
you have the time for creating something useful with your
old accus. If you have 1 or 2 working lithium-ion cells left
and your charger supports single cells too, you can create
also such ultra long shining accu-light - see circuit below.

The resistor is important otherwise the LEDs will burn up.
Use 40 Ohm for best brightness or 80 Ohm for long time.
If you have no clue about resistors I can give you a short
advice. You can google for resistor color codes, its simple.


______________________________

Hi aventurier,

the stone you have found could be a precious meteorite or
an usual very highly mineralized stone with alot of iron in it.

The Jeohunter will detect differences in the ground which
is very important for cavity and high sensitivity. The stone
you have found has a different level of mineralisation than
the rest of the soil. Depending on the Ground Balance you
will find it as cavity or as metal, because of its like metal
acting high mineralisation or iron-content.

The big question is:
Do you want to detect cavity and mineralized stone or not?

Precious clay vases or tablets also can be high mineralized.

With some experience you will find out what it is, because
it depends on what kind of ground you find such things.
As example if the ground is very low mineralized and
you know there is no cavity and there are scattered
only such mineralized stones, you can ignore them.

For better help please give me more info. Good Luck!

[der_fisherman]

Circuit corrections

Yeah, geo-i, sending you my best health wishes, but now
you have the time for creating something useful with your
old accus. If you have 1 or 2 working lithium-ion cells left
and your charger supports single cells too, you can create
also such ultra long shining accu-light - see circuit below.
The resistor is important otherwise the LEDs will burn up.
Use 40 Ohm for best brightness or 80 Ohm for long time.
If you have no clue about resistors I can give you a short
advice. You can google for resistor color codes, its simple.
______________________________

Hi aventurier,

the stone you have found could be a precious meteorite or
an usual very highly mineralized stone with alot of iron in it.

The Jeohunter will detect differences in the ground which
is very important for cavity and high sensitivity. The stone
you have found has a different level of mineralisation than
the rest of the soil. Depending on the Ground Balance you
will find it as cavity or as metal, because of its like metal
acting high mineralisation or iron-content.

The big question is:
Do you want to detect cavity and mineralized stone or not?

Precious clay vases or tablets also can be high mineralized.

With some experience you will find out what it is, because
it depends on what kind of ground you find such things.
As example if the ground is very low mineralized and
you know there is no cavity and there are scattered
only such mineralized stones, you can ignore them.

For better help please give me more info. Good Luck!

This means that the LEDs are on when charging, thus extending the charging time, by how much I cannot say, it would depend on the charging current value and the current nthrough the LRDs, but as there is no resistor in the charging circuit to the LEDs, it could easily burn them out.......
Are you sure that you copied the circuit correctly?

I have made some corrections so that will not happen, but I am no LIPO expert, but I find it VERY suspect that you put two batteries in parallel with each other. Normally as I understand it it, each LIPO battery must have its own charger connections to even the charge out. Maybe someone with LIPO knowledge could chime in and give you better advice.
The circuit changes I have made need a different switch type, but allow charging without the LEDs on and the possibility of burning out the LEDs when the charger is attached is removed. Either LEDs are on or Charge and Off.

You could easily add a small LED and a 1K5 Ohm resistor across the charge contacts to show that a charge is actually taking place if wished.

You should go and look at these videos on YouTube to show what can happen with LIPOs when incorrectly used or handled, so always use a protective "LIPO Sack":-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3o_2mwRPdw

Search using "lipo battery explosion".

regards
Andy

[Funfinder]

Hi, thx for your interest and respect that you're one of the persons that want to help,
warn about dangers and try to keep things as safe as possible.

The circuit was drawn by me and you can be assured in the case of this accu-lamp
everything is absolutly secure, even the both parallel cells.



The maximum of power that LEDs can handle is around 15mA.

Ohms law: R = V / I gives us:
3,7V / 0,15 = 24.6 Ohm
4,2V / 0,15 = 28 Ohm

The values in my circuit have 40-80 Ohm. This is for the safety of the LEDs,
but the Li-Ions even wouldn't get problems if there is no resistor at all!

My circuit has 4 possibilities:
LED on
LED off
LED on while charging
LED off while charging

Without charging, every single LED (because those are parallel) will consume 0,0925-0,04625mA (per hour)
which is harmless for the LEDs and lead to very long possible activity.

While charging, the switch usually is at off but it makes no difference if it's to on.
The advance is someone can left the lamp on even while charging.

The lamps charging cable of course should end at a short-cut secured plug.

Near the end of the charging process while the voltage raises up to 4.2v we have the following situation for the LEDs:

4,2V / 0,15 = 28 Ohm hard limit (a resistor with just 20 Ohm would provide no longer enough protection for the LEDs)

But because of 40-80Ohm the LEDs are still within the safety limit and the around 0,3 mA max of power those are draw totally is a vanishing small amount of power compared what the charger provides for loading the lith-ion cells.

If the charger is plugged and the LEDs are on there simply is no possibilty for any shortcut. 0.3mA is the maximum of current that is able to flow. A shortcut current would be a thousand times higher (@ 2x2000mAh it would be 12.000 times)

And the both parallel connected single cells also doesn't matter. The Jeohunter charger even loads two parallel connected 4s (4 in series) cells.


I know those "fire catching lipo" youtube clips already. This only happens after some minutes of completly shortcut and it also can happen with any other type of accu like NiMH.

And it can happen if someone uses those extremly bright "flare-flashlights" and some of the Lipo-cells are bad.


But not in this case! Because there is not the slightest shortcut possible - even if one of the 0,3mA circuit parts would burn there would be no shortcut, it would simply cut of the whole circuit.

The only stupid thing that could happen would be if the both wires of the charging cable or the attached plug would have a shortcut, but this is out of discussion, otherwise ANY device could have a shortcut that uses accus with a seperate charger. Even almost any accu-pack.

Shure, this lamp could be seen as an "unprotected LiPo pack" if protection means that some sort of charging or security circuit is directly attached at the cells (like in Laptop packs), but in that case every available single 3,7v Li-Po cell, almost every RC power pack and last but not least even the Jeohunter accu pack has to be called "unprotected" which of course is completly nonsense. Childs should not play with fire and even childs know that batteries or accus shouldn't get a shortcut.

And geo-i is the still alive and living proof that even a newbie can work safe with lithium cells and is able to create a fully working and even balance charged Jeohunter accu-pack!

If someone uses a shortcut-save charging plug or connnection cable in combination with a capable single cell Li Po-charger this accu-lamp is absolutly secure.


But here we see the full problematic concerning electronical circuits and "how devices really" work and the Jeohunter itself faces the same issues. People want hitec features but everything only as simple as possible. This cannot work. Some old people even couldn't get a VCR to work. For luck (or better: mostly for mens unluck!! ) computers, cellphones and mobiles nowaday are that easy to use so even women can handle them.

Somehow I'm glad not everyone is able to use the Jeohunter...

PS:
Meanwhile the light is also attachable to a bike and
I can charge a mp3-player with it.
(but only a few USB devices are chargeable by 3.7v,
most need 4.5v-5v)

[geo-i]

friends

hello my friends i don't want to argue about the volt
electricty and electronic what is is right we all the
same person want to know about the future high
tech of electricty , electronic , electromagnetic please
give us to all a good guide any way you all are the
best guru.thanks


regards
geo-i

[geo-i]

reading ossilocope

hello my friends fun finder & der fisherman i just returned form
tresure hunting someone tell me the place that i was tresure
hunting have hidden bunker .but the bunker not make with cment
i thing .i use joehunters the sensitivity 80% and ground balnce -30
-11 and -70 can't best friends give me a opinion and help me to
reading the ossiloscop thanks
this are the picture


regards
geo-i

[Funfinder]

You want to know about the coming high tech, geo-i?
The future of metal-detectors?

Everything will be further improved like with todays
computers compared to those of 15 years ago.

What we really have to find is a possibility for finding
very small gold-nuggets and the capability of extrem
depth with one and the same detector / coil.

Perhaps some kind of segmented coil can do the job
including different detection circuits and frequencies.

A nice playground for further improves & inventions...

- - - - -

Reading the oscilloscope:

There are many possibilities so I need more info.
Congratulation if you have found the bunker but
first you should be shure - here are some facts:

Your oscilloscope signal picture looks very good
but you have to know the exactly dimensions of
the "cavity area".

160cm x 160cm seems to be to small. It may be
just the hidden entrance.

Important here is that you can detect straight
border-lines over the ground so you may get
an exact large square or something.

It also is important that you will detect no
cavity around the location so you can be shure
it is no mineralisation of huge rocks or something.

The signal should be clear and repeatable (look
at my picture below).

Search at 50-60% sensitivity and check if you
still detect a huge cavity signal.

And of course it is very important that you
make the ground balance and reset outside of
the cavity area.

If everything is OK the detector should remain
quiet at some distance besided the cavity location
but if you step over the bunker (if you really have
found it) the Jeohunter will clearly and repeatable
detect it as cavity.

Also it is very important, especially the higher the
ground is mineralized, that you move the coil always
with the same distance over the ground (ca. 10cm).

Your ground balance from -11 to -70 suggests that
you are searching on medium mineralized ground.
Therefore you have to be careful the coil always
has the same distance to the ground (remains in
the preset quiet range without failure signals,
otherwise you have to lower the sensitivity) and
you should know if the mineralization level there
has a constant level or if it is caused by different
strong mineralized rocks or bedrock or whatever.

Even roots of trees can have a strong mineralisation
or can create a significant change of the ground.

All this stuff is also important for syed ayub basha,
wherever he is already. Perhaps he is very busy
because he found the buried barrels already.

geo-i, it sounds more complicated than it is.
All you have to do is to exclude every possible
"failure-signal-sources" and you're done.

If it's the entrance or the bunker you will detect
a large cavity area with some kind of geometrical
borders.

btw. first you should remove any metal parts
from this area if you can find such, because
this stuff could irritate the cavity detection.

Or simply dig a hole in the middle of the detected
area and check out what it is - 66cm or 2ft. is not
much work and withing 25min. you will know
what it is!

geo-i
keep us further informed and good luck!
And:
Please tell me how long you can work now with
your accu-pack - I see you can get it 100% full!

[syed ayub basha]

Sir funfinder, I work one place there we found cavity signal , in the center we found metal signal it is two parts the size is divided in to two parts but both two are very close outer size is 6 feet X 10 feet. then how can i enter this value in to the depth screen. there is only 160x160 cm only. i enter full value then depth reading come 352 cm it is around 12 feet but we dig 22 feet there is no nothing metal. we do all this search in 100% sensitivity. ground balance is -33. we put the sensitivity 60 or 70% we didn't get any signal. both big and medium coils find signal in 100% sensitivity. when we increasing the sensitivity signal go much deeper? what we do rung? on the center of the signal we cant ground balance the jeohunter. on the signal area we do reset and move the coil side, again we place the coil on the signal area again signal detect. we do all this before dig, but no use, after we dig 10FeetX 10Feet, @ depth is 22 feet. after digging, we go to sub surface and on the jeohunter, now it is show weak signal , in that subsurface ground balance is very hard to set. OK all set then signal of metal is nullify when we press the reset. before it shows continuous. what is this gig-gag i cant understand. please explain me.

[geo-i]

problem solve

hello friend fun finder now the situation of accu pack that you share to me is already done but it takes around 3 hours time thanks for your sharing .
now i show you the picture of 01-26-2012 that i have found which i follow your instruction is about 77cm x77cm i do hope to get some news from you thank you .why did the detector show us gold instead of metal?
regarding the bunker that i found it is about 20feet x 7feet and i have not do anything yet . my problem is the bunker area is quite narrow and near to the abbendent house which is difficult for me to dig the area because concrete is too thick what is your conclution about this matter.thanks

regards
geo-i

[Funfinder]

Hello Sir syed ayub basha,

thx for new information. First I need to know how was your success with the buried plastik-buckets tests. Because it is very important to have good experience, first.

And to search @ 100% sensitivity needs very much experience, because even small changes of the coils-distance to the ground or to your body if you wear metal stuff will cause a signal.

btw. if you are not in a desert with completly identical mineralized sand almost any ground has spots with variying mineralisation.

You will find the barrels also with 80% sensitivity at 3 ft.

What you are facing at the moment is not "gig-gag" what every this shall mean (...?) but the very high sensitivity in combination with a huge volume of interacting ground including varying coil-ground / coil-metal @ body interactions.

Digging 22fts deep is useless if the barrels are just 3ft below and useless without really good experience to search at highest senstivity.

I've searched already at 100% sensitivity but it is has to be done extremely careful, slow and exactly the same distance to the ground (on high mineralized ground even an 1-2cm of more coil to ground distance shift can cause a signal) and with alot of reset button clicks. Many now will interpret such signals wrong and thats the problem. The signal is nor right or wrong, it just detects the real changes of the EM-field which are not only caused by cavity or metal, but also by the coils distance to the ground and it's containing mineralisation.

You cannot ground balance above a detected cavity signal or within a buried hole. And if the hole already is open the cavity is no longer detectable, even if you put back the material, because the real diferrence of the needed ground conditions has been altered. However you can still detect metal in an already buried hole.

The 160x160cm value is the maximum because it doesn't matter for the internal "depth-computer" if something is larger than this to calculate the depth. But if you use the 1m coil I guess you can input larger dimensions (but for the 1m coil the depth gets different calculation variables than with the standard).

The outer size if you detect the barrels should not extend 70x70cm if those are buried vertical.

syed ayub basha, if the barrels are really there you will find them but first make the needed tests, get expierence and please don't try at the moment to search at 100% - this is too risky for a beginner for getting wrong interpretable signals. But you can try at home in room without metal on a table with not moving Jeohunter-coil to see the difference in depth if sensitivity is 70, 80, 90 and 100% and the difference of iron on or iron off.

Good luck and keep us informed!
Your beginner expierence is important for other persons with new bought Jeohunter so they directly can learn and recognise the culprits. Because the fault is not the Jeohunter, it's the lack of knowledge how sensitive metal-detectors really work.