Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Jeohunter - Visual Ground Scanner

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • @ johnny777
    Hi, thx for the reply but sorry - if I understood it right: there is no such option to input some metal's object size into the Jeohunter and then the detector
    looks out for stuff that fits to that size.

    Detailed info is in the Jeohunter manual on page 28-29:
    http://www.makrodetector.com/dedekto...lavuzlari.html
    (at this site select your prefered language at [Jeohunter 3D User Manual] and download the pdf file)


    Short explained the depth scan works that way:
    If you find something, move with your coil from left and right to the find until the signal starts.
    coil end]] -> -> -> [beep starts] [=find signal size in cm=] [beep starts] <- <- <- [[coil end

    Notice or remind the distance inbetween left and right from where the detection beep starts at the search-coils "ring region".

    Next do the same 90° from the other side of the find so in total you will get width and length of the find-signal.

    Input those values into the depth anaysis menu press accept and afterwards press the SCAN button and move slowly over the whole detection region.

    Afterwards you can see the depth analysis.

    There is also a help-animation for this directly shown on the Jeohunters screen for very easy understanding.
    But if you need to know more info about it just ask me again and I can explain it to you totally detailed.
    You also can test the depth-analysis with in-air-finds but that way the results could be a bit out of real depth because its not for the air calibrated.


    Ground effect:
    While walking the ground can change but I guess the problem you have is that the detector starts to beep after some time.
    This has nothing to do with the ground effect but with the sensitivity.
    The solution is simple: Hold the coil at 5-10cm over the ground and press the reset button.
    This way you also can get the most sensitivity if you hunt very close to the surface - only with 1-3cm coil-ground distance.

    Calibrate the ground to perfection is not so simple because the ground can change.
    The best way is if you know directly what kind of soil do you have where you live:

    Is it desert sand or is is limestone with humus (low mineralic), is it red earth or black sand (= pretty high mineralic)
    Is it loam or wet saltwater-beach sand (high mineralic) or concrete and mixed stones (medium mineralic)

    For high mineralic input minus -80 as a standard value, for medium minus 20 and for low mineralic plus 20.
    That way you get already real good results.

    And if you need the perfect depth:
    silver and huge gold and nobel metal stuff is better detectable in medium- to low-mineralic ground and if you input a higher ground balance value like plus 50.

    Very deep rusty iron and gold alloy stuff is extremly good detectable at high mineralic ground if the values are at around -100 to -50.

    This has to do with the "contrast-factor window" - you can compare it with a radio that is more sensitive to the special frequency-band for which it is made for.
    And also keep in mind to hunt in all metal mode all the time to get the maximum depth.
    If you found something you can check with the Jeohunters metal-analysis if its iron or not and then decide if you wanna dig it out.
    That way you get the highest depth.

    If you wanna find very deep and larger objects it would be the best for you if you really bury something larger at say 1 - 1,5 meter
    directly at the same ground where also the searched treasure seems to be buried!
    This way you get very fast the best experience and you can easy try out at what ground balance value the detection is optimal.

    Take some steel bucket or something larger, bury it at 1meter or deeper and check out how good you can detect it and
    how you can improve your detection results. Or if you have the 1 meter search-coil, too, test how much coil-ground distance
    gives the best results for you.
    And dont forget: the higher the sensitivity the more the reset button has to be pressed for best depth results
    and to be shure that you got a 100% clear find-signal. After some while you will recognize it very fast if the signal
    is repeatable and good enough or if it was a ground-disturbance or the coil came to close to the surface etc.

    Well, this is the good old non-motion technology! Not so simple to work as with motion-detectors but up to 30% deeper
    (and its anyway deeper already - just because of the 45cm coil size - than most other detectors)
    if you can handle this machine good enough. And compared to motion detectors the Jeohunter is completly immune against electro-smog!
    You even can make the in-air tests in your living-room directly near the TV and Computer, no problem!

    Good luck!





    @ Davor
    Hi, so far what I found out about the whole thing (see below just a part of my already detected bottlecaps...) is:
    There exists different alloys and so are the signals, depending on rust-level, depth and ground-conditions.

    However the size and shape remains pretty the same so the signal is often also the same:
    A very loud and somehow longer "powerful" beep with sharp edges.
    Those can-open-pull-rings are not so powerful and have a higher (noble -> aluminium) metal ID value.

    btw. the Jeohunter or DeepHunter can discriminate this stuff simple by "signal-lenght".
    All the time a very loud and short signal occures which fades away very fast if the coil is lifted up a bit from the surface
    it is most of the time either a beercap, a pull-tab, a little alu-piece or.... a coin!
    There exists methods to discriminate all of the not wanted stuff but often they are not failproven or they need alot experience
    and practice over a long time with one and the same detector.

    For me it is no big problem because I have my special method:
    If the Pinpointer is sensitive enough those beercaps or also the larger alu-caps from bottles get detected directly up to 5-8cm below the surface.
    So if you use before digging the Pinpointer always !!! (as a quick-check), which is a good method to prevent unneccessary digging many times, this stuff is not much work.

    Otherwise the risk to miss coins or other interesting stuff could be simply too high.

    I hope at least in some arabic countries there are not so many "alcohol-bottle-caps" everywhere around!
    But perhaps instead more dangerous stuff...

    Click image for larger version

Name:	beerbottlecaps.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	125.7 KB
ID:	340794

    Comment


    • Accu - Care-Taking

      Since 2 years no reply - wow - time runs fast!
      I guess it's also because the main attention went to the DeepHunter and Makro Racer.


      However, since it works with special accus someone has to look at them from time to
      time so they will not become deep-depleted.

      The Jeohunter and also the DeepHunter works also very good to refresh them.
      Just plug them into the main box without coil connected and wait some hours.

      I kept them for 1 year in the fridge without charging and it worked perfect.
      After the first loading the blocks from 2013 have had 5 hours power
      while those from 2009 have 4h.

      And I guess instead of storing them fully charged its better with 80%.
      This is around 1 hour of discharging inside of the Jeohunter or DeepHunter
      after the accus have been fully charged.

      And there should be 3 depleting and 3 charging cycles in total to recover the full power.

      Apropos:
      I really wanna remind you to write a little accu-charging list so you can keep track
      of when was the last time when devices with accus have been charged!
      Forgetting those dates can result in total deep-depletion and if you have a XP Deus
      or Blisstool other detector with inbuilt accus it can result in expensive etc. problems.
      The more electronic devices with inbuilt batteries you have, the more important it is!

      And recharging accus just once a year is convenient but also a little risky,
      depending on the quality and internal circuits. Better is once each half year
      for lithium-polymer batteries and ca. every 4 months for NiMH cells.

      Click image for larger version

Name:	Jeohunter_Accus.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	82.0 KB
ID:	346001

      Comment


      • Originally posted by Funfinder View Post
        Hi geo-i

        if we're lucky now we are very close to success!

        So attention and concentration please.
        Because you won't destroy the Jeohunter
        by another mistake.

        Very good the accu-pack is OK again. Well done!

        The vertical board is the PCB shown on the picture below.
        Just take a closer look so we know nothing was burned.


        And you can see the variable resistor connection in "real".

        But you need 20cm wires and solder a 470 Ohm
        resistor in line, between the cable and the resistor:




        This is a simple sketch of the correct connection:

        -------470 Ohm resistor------18cm isolated wire------> jeohunter board
        |
        |
        ---------------------
        | variable resistor |
        ---------------------
        |
        |
        --------------------------------20cm isolated wire------> jeohunter board



        After this attach everything the right way and carefully.
        Next we are ready for the tests. Good luck.
        Hi dear funfinder
        Do you know what type of transistor this piece is on the front panel of the device?

        Comment

        Working...
        X