IGSL

[der_fisherman]

IGSL Problems

Are the square waves driving the 4066 being pulled to ground, or do they swing to +8V?

I will check again tomorrow and post back to you. Its already 10:45 in the evening here.....

The JFETs in the TGSL were pulled to ground but those 4066 switch control signals should be pulled to +8V. Is there a possibly a routing error?

What do you mean by "routing error"? I am using the SilverDog PCB which several others are using with no problems at all. I do have the wrong filter caps, but according to Ivconic that will not prevent it working and the problems I have are in an area "before" those filter caps.....

Many thanks for your reply, see you tomorrow.

Regards

Andy

[Jerry]

Have you checked the outputs of U5 b & c and U6 b and c ? You should see some noise on the scope and you should also see some changes when you wave something past the coil.
If you get anything at these outputs when you put something past the coil then the problem is further on and probably not the 4066's. It is much easier to see the signal after the amp's.

Just a thought.

Jerry

[der_fisherman]

Thanks, I will check that tomorrow again. But as there is nothing going in except a change (slight) in DC levels when pots are rotated, from the 4066, I do not expect much any further on either.....
regards
Andy

[petravka]

More friends here with homemade coils IGLS musketeer to share experiences

regards

Hi Amalio, on my machine, the sound was instability because of the speaker.Must not be torn.

[silverdog]

I just checked mine, output from 4066 is barely noticeable
Just put a multimeter on one of the Lf347 pin 1 or 8 you should see a voltage change with detection, if you do then the 4066 is good

[golfnut]

Post a high quality image of your board and I will cross check it against mine

Plus your coils -

[der_fisherman]

Post a high quality image of your board and I will cross check it against mine

Plus your coils -

Top, bottom or both?
regards
Andy

[simonbaker]

Hi All,

I need a bit of help as I cannot get my IGSL to do anything like making a noise at all!

The -6.2 volts and the 8 volts are found on all chip sockets at the correct points.

There is about 8 volts sine wave on the Tx coil.

The problem appears to be around the 4066, I have replaced it 3 times with no change.

The output of U1a from pin 1 can be seen on the scope at U11 on pins 1, 3, 8 and 10.

There are also signals on the 4066 Pins 13, 5, 6 and 12 from U4d pin 13, U4c pin 14, U4b pin 1, U4a pin 2 .

But I see only a (slightly) changing DC level on the 4066 pins 2, 4, 9 & 11 when turning the related pots or trimmers, where I would expect to see some part of the input signal, modified by the ON/OFF signal on the 4066 output pins.....

I suspected the 220 nF Caps and removed C39, but it tests out perfectly, I am loath to remove the others just for testing. I had hoped that there was a short to ground there....

If I lift the pins 11, 9, 4 & 2 of U11 out, I can see signals being output on them using the scope, though they may be of very high impedance and I am just picking them up "across" the gate....

I have cleaned the PCB again of any flux residue and gone over the pcb with a high powered magnifying glass looking for shorts, breaks and dry joints. I may have to get the soldering iron hot again and touch each one to be sure.

I have set the coils at both a good null and offset to around 10mVolts to no effect.

I have also reversed one coil just in case.

All to no effect. Still no "signals" from out of the 4066 when connected correctly.

My next idea is to replace some of the Diodes as measuring them in circuit may not be quite good enough, though there is a difference depending upon the polarity of the meter leads that suggests the diodes are OK.

The strange part is that I have also replaced every single chip as least once on the PCB.

Also that all 4 signals FROM the 4066 are affected.....The version I am using is the HCF4066BEY that appears to have a sightly increased voltage range as the main difference.....but the problems have been the same from all the parts I have had, including the 4066 from SilverDog....

Thanks for any help and regards from

Andy

Hi der_fisherman:

Can you put a scope on the outputs of the U5 and U6 op amps (pins 7 and 8 ) while you wave a target coin about 10 to 15 cm from the coils?

The scope should be on a sweep speed of about .1 seconds (very slow) and the vertical scale about 50 mV/div or so; not critical.

You should be able to see the pulses when you sweep the target over the coil if all is working.

If you see the pulses, the maybe something is wrong downstream (later stages).

If you don't see the pulses, check the output of the previous op amp in the channel (using as sensitive a scale as you can on your scope).

If you don't see anything at either stage, then we need to dig into what is going on with your 4066, or even before that stage.

-SB

[silverdog]

Just to rule out the simple but easy to make mistake;

Have you jumpered D1 and D2 to the chosen 4024 pads ?

[Amalio]

Hi Amalio, on my machine, the sound was instability because of the speaker.Must not be torn.

Hello Petravka

this is not my problem, my IGLS ferrite not see four inches above the sound acting almost constantly.

I have tried to changing ic, with no results, I have doubts with the connecting cable of the coil, not used before by me.

I'm looking for cable replacement.

you in its coil coils conpensacion ¿?

can give details of your coil?

regards

[der_fisherman]

Hi der_fisherman:

Can you put a scope on the outputs of the U5 and U6 op amps (pins 7 and 8 ) while you wave a target coin about 10 to 15 cm from the coils?

The scope should be on a sweep speed of about .1 seconds (very slow) and the vertical scale about 50 mV/div or so; not critical.

You should be able to see the pulses when you sweep the target over the coil if all is working.

If you see the pulses, the maybe something is wrong downstream (later stages).

If you don't see the pulses, check the output of the previous op amp in the channel (using as sensitive a scale as you can on your scope).

If you don't see anything at either stage, then we need to dig into what is going on with your 4066, or even before that stage.

-SB

I am confident with the circuitry up to the 4066, its after the (outputs from the) 4066 that I appear to have problems.....

regards

Andy

[der_fisherman]

Just to rule out the simple but easy to make mistake;

Have you jumpered D1 and D2 to the chosen 4024 pads ?

Yes I have.

Regards

Andy

[der_fisherman]

Hi der_fisherman:

Can you put a scope on the outputs of the U5 and U6 op amps (pins 7 and 8 ) while you wave a target coin about 10 to 15 cm from the coils?

The scope should be on a sweep speed of about .1 seconds (very slow) and the vertical scale about 50 mV/div or so; not critical.

You should be able to see the pulses when you sweep the target over the coil if all is working.

If you see the pulses, the maybe something is wrong downstream (later stages).

If you don't see the pulses, check the output of the previous op amp in the channel (using as sensitive a scale as you can on your scope).

If you don't see anything at either stage, then we need to dig into what is going on with your 4066, or even before that stage.

-SB

I hoped to get time today, but I didn't, so I will try tomorrow.

Regards

Andy

[bernte_one]

pictures

hello im short before finishing my igsl musketeer
it seems that some have problems when finishing their units

i´m frightened that this the same at me

can it be that there are on every versions tesoro coil / musketeer coil version
are options an the board the partlist for my musketeer version has less parts as printed on my board so that i have to leave some points free?
for example the is printed the part number Q3, Q3 and at another place the type BCxxx
or a printing for a cap named as spare
for sure i will compare with shematice but soldering strictly after the printing and partlist confused me a some little points

so i think i will post a pic this weekend (i hope my works)

and others can do it to there is nothing magic to upload a picture

[ivconic]

hello im short before finishing my igsl musketeer
it seems that some have problems when finishing their units

i´m frightened that this the same at me

can it be that there are on every versions tesoro coil / musketeer coil version
are options an the board the partlist for my musketeer version has less parts as printed on my board so that i have to leave some points free?
for example the is printed the part number Q3, Q3 and at another place the type BCxxx
or a printing for a cap named as spare
for sure i will compare with shematice but soldering strictly after the printing and partlist confused me a some little points

so i think i will post a pic this weekend (i hope my works)

and others can do it to there is nothing magic to upload a picture

It is always like that; some people do make it proper and their devices start working nice from a first switching ON... and some people do miss something to do right, and their devices are not working nice from a start.
Don't worry in advance!
That's why is this forum for - to solve such issues.
Finish it and than we will see.
Just look TGSL thread! First TGSL started back in 2007. and even today some people can't make it right!
That's why i involved second version ("Musketeer coil" version) - to make life easier to those which are not capable to make good DIY coil.
Musketeer coils are not so expensive and you can find it almost everywhere, in almost every md shop and service.
And unlike the original Tesoro coils (for TGS serie and other oldies) - Musketeer coils will perform much better and deeper.
Involving second version seems not good enough; because some people still insist even to make that coil too!
Ok, that's very nice and enthusiastic, but i don't see the point?
It is much better to buy one and than to use it as sort of "reference" for all further works.
For dedicated DIY'ers there is still first version for TGSL coils...
Despite that, i still made few DIY coils for Musketeer, just to experience that too.
It is not hard task, not harder than making TGSL coil.
But, keep in mind that before i started to make DIY Musketeer coil - i already had few original coils to compare!
....
If you take a look on TGSL thread, read each page and follow all the "history" there - you will see that pretty same story could repeat here too.
It is always like that.
Process of making, adjusting,testing..... various issues that may appear in process of making... - the same.
More pedant and patient DIY'ers are always getting the proper hand made and success at the end.
So don't worry, just make it.
Each one of you will finally have good hand made.
Some of you sooner and some later.
That's the beauty and that's the hobby.
And this forum here is to help you.


P.S.
If i turn back in the past and count all my successful and unsuccessful hand made, among all what i done so far... sheesh!
Relation would be 70% : 30% !!! (70% stands for bad ones!)
See? Yet i didn't give up so far!
Ain't that real passion and dedication?