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Hi all think i now understand a little about this design now, read all listing twice almost ready to order and build my detector so dont go away help maybe (will be) needed. A thought occured to me if high and low frequencies had seperate amps low fed to left side high to right and volumes balanced would it give a seperation of mid tones maybe even an effect of the sounds moving left or right and would this add to the information my brain needs all the help it can get as i am tone deaf
Hi all think i now understand a little about this design now, read all listing twice almost ready to order and build my detector so dont go away help maybe (will be) needed. A thought occured to me if high and low frequencies had seperate amps low fed to left side high to right and volumes balanced would it give a seperation of mid tones maybe even an effect of the sounds moving left or right and would this add to the information my brain needs all the help it can get as i am tone deaf
Not sure that i understand what are you meaning, but for sure use of earphones will give you more infos than use of speaker.
just like stereo left channel low tone right channel high tone set volume same in each one, would you get the effect of movement as in a stereo recording when you had a mix of tones may just be a silly idea. maybe i should just stick to wood. built a MD 30 years ago now returning so have a lot to catch up on, built qrp radios but only from designs from experts like yourself just hope to learn and understand something
because of problems with my IGLS musket and the lack of oscilloscope decided to mount another card, this time version IGLS tgls and for the occasion one of my coils TGLS.
Nothing but SUPPLY my IGLS put up with the same problem as the musketeer version, but begin to configure and start watching IGLS objectives, two-euro coin in about 30 cm, if the two tones running, also discrimination.
But I can not completely eliminate ferrite (for testing) and also with good stability.
While the cancellation of coils may not be correct (canceled as a in my TGLS 0.4) I think I'm also suffering from the problems of EMI, and I think this may be part of my problems with the version musketeer.
I will try out next weekend and set in a place outside EMI
got my igsl last night running
but need to null the coils
i must learn about the pot and trimmer function (mainly the onboard trimmers)
for the tone deaf (i think that this are people which cant seperate different tones)
maybe a led out can be helpful - low tone red color hight tone green or other
by the way what are the measure points to get the null voltage (dont want to use oszi - have a new usb oszi but not tried yet)
are the points the same as at the tgsl? ore should i test at another point?
But I can not completely eliminate ferrite (for testing) and also with good stability.
While the cancellation of coils may not be correct (canceled as a in my TGLS 0.4) I think I'm also suffering from the problems of EMI, and I think this may be part of my problems with the version musketeer.
I will try out next weekend and set in a place outside EMI
This describes where I am with mine, difficut to tune out ferrite,
Fair bit of chatter
can get UK pound coin well but not gold and vice versa
One mod may be to toggle the 2 adjustment trim positions continuously with cmos switch - so det can "see" gold and uk pounds
"British one pound (£1) coin is minted from a nickel-brass alloy of approximately 70% copper, 24.5% zinc, and 5.5% nickel. The coin weighs 9.50 grams (0.34 oz) and has a diameter of 22.50 millimetres "
There is nice trick how to solder Aluminium!
Before soldering, merge that Al area parts in machine oil , than use sharp knife and scrape areas which are about to be soldered and joined together.
Oil should remain on surfaces and will prevent Al to get into touch with air and Oxygen from air and to oxidize fast, as it usually does if there was not oil applied.
Than use extra powerful soldering iron and solder those two parts.
Fact is that Al is easy to join with tin if Al surface is perfectly clean and heated with proper temperature.
Problem lays in fact that Al is oxidizing very very fast when exposed to air.
So oil is there to protect Al surface from oxidizing, for a moment, until is heated and joined with tin.
Certainly, ordinary soldering iron (usually used for soldering small electronics) is not enough powerful for such operation.
I have Weller with "7","8" and "9" peaks and tried all of those to solder Al, yet without success, because it is not powerful enough and Al is cooling very fast.
Yet, than i tried same with much more powerful soldering iron (300w) and got success!!
Neat trick, isn't it?
Hi,
that's truly neat trick Ivica, I also know there are some special electrodes for arc soldering of e.g. Al pipes, that you can use with common arc soldering stations, but the trick for tin soldering is really cool for small or thin stuff to connect with copper or other solderable wires
Many thanks to IVCONIC and all the other forum members for spending time to this project
here first test
fastly set the coil to null phase
all other adjustments not made this moment
its time to watch tv and relax the rest of this evening
Many thanks to IVCONIC and all the other forum members for spending time to this project
here first test
fastly set the coil to null phase
all other adjustments not made this moment
its time to watch tv and relax the rest of this evening
Bernte that's good for now.
Coil must be more precise balanced.
Those small chatters that appears from time to time are caused by increased gain at channels.
For now you just do make small changes and return values as noted on sketch bellow.
Instead 1M5 put 470k and instead 10nF put 22nF, on all places noted on sketch.
That's how you will void those chatters and instability.
I wanted to experiment with higher gain than and later realized that it was bad idea.
So, when you return values like those are at TGSL, you will not have chatters and instability and therefore will be able to balance coil more easily.
Cheers!
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