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I did already in post #1404, but with plenty of comments and some rubbish copy/paste extra that I missed to clean prior to posting.
I'll clean it one of these days.
I have an anniversary situation today, and my XYL would make a big fuss if I play with electronics instead
can you please post last pcb layout files for express pcb
i think i will try express pcb (at moment sprintlayout)
thanks
No, i am having pcb file only in Sprint Layout format.
Kind a odd; but i am drawing schematics in ExpressPCB(SCH module included) and all my pcb's i am drawing in Sprint Layout 5.
Somehow i adopted those two for separate jobs.
ExpressPCB (SCH module) is most suitable for me for drawing schematics and SL5 is most suitable for me for drawing pcb's.
So i don't have pcb layout in ExpressPCB.
I am considering replacing a 7808 regulator with a 10ohm resistor and 10 000μF capacitor, and giving up 12V supply for the much more convenient one: 9V cube battery, 6LR61 or similar.
Now, why should I do something like that?
First off, I am a light user of a metal detector, and my longest single pass with a metal detector took about two hours. Doing that with a 9V battery in a series with 2 AA cells, and I could not deplete more than 2 such 9V batteries for most of the summer. Hence, high capacity battery packs are a serious overkill for my level of usage, my pocket, and my back.
I'll try it this way...
I think I can easily do that BECAUSE the most of the IGSL is using a stabilised source at 8V anyway. Only audio uses 12V, and it can work as well with much less.
Inspired by the scuba diving gear that forces you to switch to the reserve air once the criterion of main reserve is met, I'll use not one but two cubes and a switch to select either of the batteries or none (OFF).
In addition I'll put a surge protector ICP-N15 (or something) in series with the supply and a rectifier diode from ground to the + right after the protector to be sure I don't blow anything valuable when changing the batteries. These protectors come at half the price of a regular fuse, and they simply recover to the working state over and again. And they come with a very small footprint too.
How am I going to use it?
I'll run on one battery and when I start noticing that it is giving up, I'll just switch to another. After some time I'll switch back to squeeze the remaining few drops of juice from the first one. Alternatively I'll buy cheap rechargeable cubes in Lidl and use them without squeezing the last breath out of them.
Total cost? 2Eur for a 10000μF, 1/2 Eur for ICP-N15, 1N4005 and a resistor from my beloved furda.
Another alternative would be regulating the plus and minus supplies to 5 volts and running everything with +- 5 volts except for Osc. & audio at 9 volts. As is recall there are some Tesoro models already doing that but dont have time to look right now so I could be wrong.
Anyway, that is one of the schemes I have been thinking about but have not actually tried yet.
I am considering replacing a 7808 regulator with a 10ohm resistor and 10 000μF capacitor, and giving up 12V supply for the much more convenient one: 9V cube battery, 6LR61 or similar.
Now, why should I do something like that?
First off, I am a light user of a metal detector, and my longest single pass with a metal detector took about two hours. Doing that with a 9V battery in a series with 2 AA cells, and I could not deplete more than 2 such 9V batteries for most of the summer. Hence, high capacity battery packs are a serious overkill for my level of usage, my pocket, and my back.
I'll try it this way...
I think I can easily do that BECAUSE the most of the IGSL is using a stabilised source at 8V anyway. Only audio uses 12V, and it can work as well with much less.
Inspired by the scuba diving gear that forces you to switch to the reserve air once the criterion of main reserve is met, I'll use not one but two cubes and a switch to select either of the batteries or none (OFF).
In addition I'll put a surge protector ICP-N15 (or something) in series with the supply and a rectifier diode from ground to the + right after the protector to be sure I don't blow anything valuable when changing the batteries. These protectors come at half the price of a regular fuse, and they simply recover to the working state over and again. And they come with a very small footprint too.
How am I going to use it?
I'll run on one battery and when I start noticing that it is giving up, I'll just switch to another. After some time I'll switch back to squeeze the remaining few drops of juice from the first one. Alternatively I'll buy cheap rechargeable cubes in Lidl and use them without squeezing the last breath out of them.
Total cost? 2Eur for a 10000μF, 1/2 Eur for ICP-N15, 1N4005 and a resistor from my beloved furda.
Good idea using less juice, seeing alot more of the icp-n15 etc these days in security equipment.
Here is the last version of IGSL schematic, the way I use it ... more or less. I took freedom to correct some component values to get into the "garden variety" choice and that is the only difference to what I use now. So all resistors are from E6 and transistors choice is very limited.
I "forgot" to correct the components designations (R1 ...) so it may require some further improvement.
It may now appear more obvious that one GEB channel is completely redundant. In case it is deleted, there are only 3 bilateral switches employed, and that is inviting something like a 4053 and full wave switching. OK, that will be a next step.
And here is the redox version that I'm considering as an interim stage. I also put a surge protector and a 10000uF instead of 7808, and 9V supply ... the way I see it.
Input can be set as symmetrical and switches can be 4053 - with no changes to the rest of the circuit.
I'd be delighted if someone jumps in and makes additional corrections.
I think no additional isolation will be required because Rx and Tx are working on the same frequency, and much more serious leakage is in imperfect balancing of the coil, but good thinking though.
The fuse as shown in the schematic is actually a surge protector. These critters are doing the same job as garden variety silver wire thermal blow up fuses, but come at half the price (!), do not require any kind of crutches on the PCB, and they spontaneously recover so you d not have to replace them - ever. The main role of the particular one is polarity reversal protection, and it happens in tandem with the 1N4001 diode. I'm about to test this setup in a few days, so I'll let you know.
Hi Davor
Must say very impresive, only had a quick look as works are busy here, Would I be right saying that most if not all could be implemented into the original TGSL making the whole project a much simpler design with same performance as the IGSL, because the way Im looking at it even more now than the original design theres two TGSLs stuck together with one half thats basicaly gone lame, as in not required, it just sits there taking much needed current from the batterys.
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