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  • Originally posted by sdesic View Post
    How do you do you cut card board to fit coil enclosure ?

    My coils are in this shape ...
    [ATTACH]30895[/ATTACH]

    You have cover under coil ?
    See your problem not a good housing for this solution


    Does not have to be close to the windings you could just stick the circle of cardboard to the top and bottom just to prove it works.


    Would have to work out some type of waterproofing for a long term solution


    I have the same problem with packaging on one of my coils. Can't figure out why wrapping micopore tap around the coil and covering with carbon does not work as well as the cardboard. Think it might be the tiny creases that cause a none smooth coating. Need to try a couple more experiments.

    Haven't tried covering the micropore before wrapping around the coil to give a more even coating
    Haven't tried wrapping a single layer around the outside of the coil instead of spiraling it around
    Haven't tried spacing it away from the windings


    You could try the graphite spray directly to the housing.


    Tried and failed with micropore tape spiraled around each winding and then covered in graphite
    Tried and failed with one layer of PVC tape then space blanket then PVC
    Tried and failed with two layers of PVC tape then space blanket then two layers PVC
    Tried and failed with tap wire under the space blanket conductive side down
    Tried and failed with tap wire above the space blanket conductive side up
    Tried with the shield connected at the RX GND at the coil
    Tried with the shield connected only at the box end
    Tried with the coil connector shielded and none shielded
    Coil covered with space blanket is worse than no shield at all
    Tried some with a second TX and RX windings same results.
    Gave up with space blanket
    Can't find out why it does not work for me as others have had success using the space blanket.

    Card worked straight out of the box. Not just a fluke as I have tried again same result. Still not quite as good as my factory coil but pretty good.

    Comment


    • Koala,

      Wow you have done it all
      Review of shielding in full.
      Can you post picture of your finished coil.
      You have used graphit spray and cardboard - from top and bottom.

      We should have sticky posts here for latest schematics and PCBs.
      I think this is latest ?
      Geotech_VDI.rar

      Comment


      • I just realized a problem in the PicBasic or Arduino X/Y Readings Software :

        The X/Y Map is an Elipse (squished circle) angled by the Metal's X and R, the Reactive and Resistive Components.
        So, a Sample of Readings over a Time Frame will vary around the Elipse.
        These readings often will not follow the Simple Division Equation used in the Software.
        Because, it is NOT a SIMPLE LINE ...
        Especially on the ends of the Elipse.

        This would explain the range of readings that I get.

        I saw a good Oscilliscope Vid and Photos somewhere ...

        Comment


        • Hack Lugatek VDI

          Part1
          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2So4...ature=youtu.be

          Part2
          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3s7DWjWDVLI

          Part3
          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kil9McoVWis

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Koala View Post
            See your problem not a good housing for this solution


            Does not have to be close to the windings you could just stick the circle of cardboard to the top and bottom just to prove it works.


            Would have to work out some type of waterproofing for a long term solution


            I have the same problem with packaging on one of my coils. Can't figure out why wrapping micopore tap around the coil and covering with carbon does not work as well as the cardboard. Think it might be the tiny creases that cause a none smooth coating. Need to try a couple more experiments.

            Haven't tried covering the micropore before wrapping around the coil to give a more even coating
            Haven't tried wrapping a single layer around the outside of the coil instead of spiraling it around
            Haven't tried spacing it away from the windings


            You could try the graphite spray directly to the housing.


            Tried and failed with micropore tape spiraled around each winding and then covered in graphite
            Tried and failed with one layer of PVC tape then space blanket then PVC
            Tried and failed with two layers of PVC tape then space blanket then two layers PVC
            Tried and failed with tap wire under the space blanket conductive side down
            Tried and failed with tap wire above the space blanket conductive side up
            Tried with the shield connected at the RX GND at the coil
            Tried with the shield connected only at the box end
            Tried with the coil connector shielded and none shielded
            Coil covered with space blanket is worse than no shield at all
            Tried some with a second TX and RX windings same results.
            Gave up with space blanket
            Can't find out why it does not work for me as others have had success using the space blanket.

            Card worked straight out of the box. Not just a fluke as I have tried again same result. Still not quite as good as my factory coil but pretty good.
            Hi koala, been reading your posts in this thread, and what you say is spot on, i could not get space blanket to work either, a simple shield made from stiff paper or fine card coated in graphite worked every time for me.
            so now i just make a card faraday shield and coat it with graphite, and its surprising how little graphite makes a useable shield.

            Comment


            • How do you connect your tap wire to the card. I have tried just tape and it works well but don't think long term reliability would be good. Also tried graphite mixed with PVA glue into something like toothpaste this is conductive but you can pull the wire straight off as it dries as a powder.

              Comment


              • I watched all three videos, I learnt nothing. What was the point?

                Andy

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Koala View Post
                  How do you connect your tap wire to the card. I have tried just tape and it works well but don't think long term reliability would be good. Also tried graphite mixed with PVA glue into something like toothpaste this is conductive but you can pull the wire straight off as it dries as a powder.
                  i used a small square of copper tape(4mm square), i stuck this on the card and soldered the fine tag wire to it, then i coated the card with graphite making sure i put a nice dollop on the soldered spot.
                  for the bottom piece of card i did the same thing added a small square and put a tag wire on it, if you find the right spot to place the tag you only need a small length of fine wire to join the two, the shield braid solders to this, the graphite i use is graphite powder mixed with clear acrylic lacquer, to sat dave uk's recipe, the only difference between his and my recipe is he uses polyurethane varnish, i am violently allergic to polyurethane paints so substituted acrylic lacquer.
                  i did try spray on graphite but i think its a- too expensive, b- too loose it needs a fixing agent, c- makes a bloody mess as it just comes back off.
                  with a nice coat the solvent soaks into the card (then dries) leaving a solid carbonised faraday shield which works very well for me.

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by sinclairuser View Post
                    i used a small square of copper tape(4mm square), i stuck this on the card and soldered the fine tag wire to it, then i coated the card with graphite making sure i put a nice dollop on the soldered spot.
                    for the bottom piece of card i did the same thing added a small square and put a tag wire on it, if you find the right spot to place the tag you only need a small length of fine wire to join the two, the shield braid solders to this, the graphite i use is graphite powder mixed with clear acrylic lacquer, to sat dave uk's recipe, the only difference between his and my recipe is he uses polyurethane varnish, i am violently allergic to polyurethane paints so substituted acrylic lacquer.
                    i did try spray on graphite but i think its a- too expensive, b- too loose it needs a fixing agent, c- makes a bloody mess as it just comes back off.
                    with a nice coat the solvent soaks into the card (then dries) leaving a solid carbonised faraday shield which works very well for me.
                    Pictures of White's coil bottom part
                    Click image for larger version

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                    Click image for larger version

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                    pictures are worth 1000 words ?

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by jlsilicon View Post
                      I just realized a problem in the PicBasic or Arduino X/Y Readings Software :

                      The X/Y Map is an Elipse (squished circle) angled by the Metal's X and R, the Reactive and Resistive Components.
                      So, a Sample of Readings over a Time Frame will vary around the Elipse.
                      These readings often will not follow the Simple Division Equation used in the Software.
                      Because, it is NOT a SIMPLE LINE ...
                      Especially on the ends of the Elipse.

                      This would explain the range of readings that I get.

                      I saw a good Oscilliscope Vid and Photos somewhere ...
                      Your right, the largest values in your array would be though, max X and max R for the tan-1 function.

                      You notice on commercial units sometimes it takes several passes to give a good ID and even then the reading fluctuates

                      Comment


                      • For reference, here is an example to show this X to Y curve :
                        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9DuMekVwic

                        And, described a little here:
                        http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showt...hlight=youtube

                        Comment


                        • I just rediscovered a spray paint that contains graphite to make easy work of shielding.
                          Here's a link to Tractor Supply To buy some;

                          http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/stor...-12-oz-aerosol

                          And here's the thread I found it in;

                          http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showt...nductive-paint

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Silver Dollar View Post
                            I just rediscovered a spray paint that contains graphite to make easy work of shielding.
                            Here's a link to Tractor Supply To buy some;

                            http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/stor...-12-oz-aerosol

                            And here's the thread I found it in;

                            http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showt...nductive-paint
                            this is European version
                            http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/...PHITE-33200-ML

                            Comment


                            • my LF347 pin 7 Pin 8 does not send signal to VDI, and currency discriminates near the coil. LF347 what happen

                              ociloscopio I have no. way he is not bad LF347.

                              Comment


                              • Hello there,

                                I am mechanical designer and as they say, "to each his profession"

                                Could you tell me if there is a way to increase the reactivity of VDI?

                                The 2 amps are mounted input integrator with the + terminal on a divider bridge 2.5volts. Is that the integrator or subtraction?

                                The problems of input output menu bug is probably in the fact that the microcontroller pin up !! The push buttons of a microcontroller, in mounting this active low, must be connected to ground with a 10k.

                                I replied with a mounting Lf347 and changed cap0.470 by 1μ with 10k in series. The feedback resistor against at 470k. This circuit responds to 30cm but gives errors of values​​.

                                I need exactly this arrangement identified but I have my doubts ... intégrateur- or subtraction / differential?

                                Is it possible to have better results with an amp instrumentation?
                                Especially since I saw some identical VDi has yielded results greater than distance..et entry VDI lugateck is the same assembly.

                                thanks

                                Comment

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