its ok about the vdi i just want it to be complete when finished. anyone who did finish the vdi what setting for the oscillator 4 , 8 , or 10 mhz is the reset used as a reset and should the watch dog timer and brown out both be off?
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Hi jlsilicon
"Metallised" and "Polypropylene" refer to two different aspects of capacitor construction. A capacitor consists internally of two conducting layers separated by a dielectric (insulating) layer. The dielectric layer can be a plastic such as polyester, polystyrene, or polypropylene, or any one of a number of other materials such as ceramic or mica. In capacitors using plastic film as the dielectric the conducting layers can be either metal foil or a thin layer of metal deposited directly onto the film, in a process known as metallisation. There are no hard and fast rules, although usually polyester capacitors are metallised and polystyrene use foil. A capacitor simply described as "metallised" will almost certainly be polyester. Polypropylene types can be metallised or foil - in low power/low voltage situations such as the guts of a metal detector, either is OK. Polypropylene caps have somewhat superior properties to polyester so can be used without a problem, assuming they physically fit on the pcb OK. (Wikipedia has entries on capacitors in general and film caps in particular.)
Hope this helps.
Gwil
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Well, I tried using Polyurethane instead of Epoxy for the Coil.
But, its flexible like stiff rubber - like tire rubber.
So, I would not suggest using Polyurethane as a solution for the Coil.
To fix this, I will am going back over it with Epoxy to solidify it.
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polyester resin is very hard, fast and cheap. Often used on glass fibre
eg
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/pai...as-resin-250ml
fill in stages, as volume cure gets too hot
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I get better results with epoxy. Can take several days to fully harden this cold weather so once semi cured I but it in the oven at 50C goes rock hard.
Polyester also works and is cheaper but not as hard and I find the null alters as it cures
Both make usable coils.
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ok i got my boards from silverdog they are great smaller than i was expecting so thats a bonus. just if anyone knows how the wiring for power goes if you could help a bit you would save me some time. it looks like there is a switch wired to the board but it says p5 also theres a pot in the front called p5 so iam wondering is that pot a 100k with a switch if it is i still cant tell how all the holes near the power works. i don't know if you have pass me a hint please.
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