You mean the FREQ connector with the 1K POT attached, the 470 resistor, and the 0.068 Cap ?
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Originally posted by jlsilicon View PostYou mean the FREQ connector with the 1K POT attached, the 470 resistor, and the 0.068 Cap ?
R56 needs to be changed back to 100 ohms the negative side of C33 lifted from the board and a 1K POT add from this leg and back to the hole it came from on the PCB.
Really really not worth the effort just another knob to go wrong when out in the field.
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Hi Koala,
A slightly offtopic question. You said you have adapted your IDX to accept a white's 6B search coil. What modifications did you use. You said you put a bigger value ground balance pot. Is there any value you would recommend? I am about to build IDX, and also have an old White's coinmaster 6/DB, for which I have no coil, so I would like to make a coil that is compatible for both. Can I just build a standard DD 27 cm coil? It will work with IDX, but will it work with coinmaster? What is the exact difference? I haven't had any luck finding the info on 6B heads. If I could modify the coinmaster to accept the IDX heads (950 coils), I would gladly do it. If anybody knows, I would appreciate the answer.
Thanks in advance,
Luka
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adapted your IDX to accept a white's 6B search coil.
Just added a resistor in sereas to the POT can't remeber the value can open my detector if you want. I just increased the value untill it was within range.
Can I just build a standard DD 27 cm coil?
Yes. Standard TGSL shape in the 101 instructions and the values on the first page of this thread. Gives 40cm with a UK 2p either copper or iron.
If I could modify the coinmaster to accept the IDX heads (950 coils)
Can't help. You will have to try it. The 950 is an excellent coil for the IDX though one of the best. Good depth. Good DISC. Good pin pointing and very stable.
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Thank you very much for your reply. I will in the following weeks be building my IDX together with my father, and I will be posting my experiences here. Obviously, I'm new on this forum and I am not very experienced with MD's, but I am experienced with electronics and have all the necessary equipment for testing and debugging.
No need for exact value now, I will manage by myself. Once you've done that mod, did the MD work ok? Or did you have other issues as well? If so, how bad were the issues?
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Originally posted by fluxx View PostThank you very much for your reply. I will in the following weeks be building my IDX together with my father, and I will be posting my experiences here. Obviously, I'm new on this forum and I am not very experienced with MD's, but I am experienced with electronics and have all the necessary equipment for testing and debugging.
No need for exact value now, I will manage by myself. Once you've done that mod, did the MD work ok? Or did you have other issues as well? If so, how bad were the issues?
Discrimination is just about perfect. Large iron fools it a bit but there are a few tricks to sort that out.The right headphones help. The grunt from some large iron is more defined in some than others. If it a loud signal lift the coil off the ground if the signal suddenly disappears its iron a good target will gradually fade. Deep large iron will only give a signal one way. Ether left to right or up and down but not both. The only iron I tend to dig is anything with a hole in the center.
The detector does take a bit of learning. Use the least discrimination you can get away with the more discrimination you use the less depth you have. On sites with a lot of coke don't ground balance perfectly slightly positive and the coke will not bother you.
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Originally posted by golfnut View Postsounds like your having some real success there. Its rewading to find something nice with your own kit isnt it.
Any pics of these bits? Whats a potin?
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here you go
Bit of inspiration for people building this.
Using a 8" coil is roughly on a par with a Deuc with a 9" coil except no target ID. If I find a iffy signal in the ground and ask someone with a Deuc and 9" to check it they also get an iffy signal.
10" homemade DD is roughly twice the depth in air over the 8" on a 1918 sixpence.
only problem I have with the 10" is my shielding. Tried many way but all give false signals not bad but enough to be annoying factory coil rock steady.
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Originally posted by jlsilicon View PostWhats the difference in Schematic components design between the Whites Classic and the IDX Pro ?
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Building another coil. Not happy with my last. Gives too many false signals.
read this thread. satdaveuk uses 1 of graphite to 4 of yacht varnish is this by weight of volume.
can I use epoxy resin instead of the varnish already have some
Coil is a DD is it better to use flat coated plates or directly applied to the windings or little difference
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Ive had a go at epoxy, it doesnt allow the grapghite particles to touch, - with paint, as it dries, the particles are forced to touch.
I think its best to do the shell inner on 3 sides.
The coil facing the ground needs a shallow pot and a layer of carbon paint - this bridges to the shell sides, so conductive all around. Then final pot to flush in normal epoxy.
I think anyway, sure theres loads of ways..
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