Goldmaxx Power Connector Wiring...

[Ewan]

I'll definitely have to replace the 6-pin socket which connects the coil
lead to the control box on my Goldmaxx Power, as the lead just below
the socket - irrespective of the control settings - "falses" at the slightest
touch or movement.

I haver ordered a new socket from Regton's in Birmingham, but just in
case there isn't any colour-to-pin instructions included, does anyone
know this information?

I cannot source this from the original as it's a factory-sealed plug and
very difficult to disassemble.

I'd appreciate help if anyone's done this themselves.

[Qiaozhi]

I'll definitely have to replace the 6-pin socket which connects the coil
lead to the control box on my Goldmaxx Power, as the lead just below
the socket - irrespective of the control settings - "falses" at the slightest
touch or movement.

I haver ordered a new socket from Regton's in Birmingham, but just in
case there isn't any colour-to-pin instructions included, does anyone
know this information?

I cannot source this from the original as it's a factory-sealed plug and
very difficult to disassemble.

I'd appreciate help if anyone's done this themselves.

Cut the lead off a few inches away from the plug. Then strip back the outer sleeving to expose the inner wires. Use a continuity checker to determine which wire goes to which pin on the plug.
Problem solved.
You're eventually going to have to cut off the plug anyway, and also remove a few inches from the lead to get past the intermittent connection.

[Ewan]

Yep, good answer Qiaozhi. That would be the failsafe solution.
Thanks for the reply.

[Germanicus]

I have the same Problem ("falses" at the slightesttouch or movement).
Did the exchange of the connector improved the problem?
Has anybody a cheap source for the connector (in Germany)?

[F117]

Just like Qiaozhi says: shorten the cable, solder it directly to the PCB.
I had the same problem: when shaking the stem I got false signals.
I mounted the batteries + digital voltmeter in a separate housing under the arm rest.
Mounted the original control box + directly connected shortened cable on the stem - right way up - using tube clamps.
Some pictures are worth more than a thousand words:








Solder the cable directly to the board






The cinch connector is to connect the charger: ( remember: the original connector was removed)

Connector pinout:
"wit" = white and "blauw" = blue "batterijlader" = battery charger





Battery box:



Built-in cheap chinese voltmeter + pushbutton: 14.4 V from 8 x NiZn AA.





Et voila:
NO MORE IRRITATING FALSE SIGNALS



Have fun !
- Bernard

[F117]

And modified charger with male cinch:

[Germanicus]

Thanks for the pictures F117. WHen my Detektor geht's worsen i will think of your Modifikation. But how about waterproofess? And what is when the Coil will be defektive? I think i will try First a new connector, which is quite extensive ~25€!
did anybody exchange the connector? Was there a improvement?

[F117]

I soldered the cable directly to the PCB because I never change the coil on the GMp.
When you change the connector on the cable, you probably should also put a new connector on the control box to the PCB.
This connector is poor quality, especially when you need to take it out each time to recharge the batteries.
That is another reason why I wanted a simple cinch connector to connect the charger.

The control box itself is "waterproof" = rain proof.