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Because more people are doing SMD projects, I thought I would give my 2 cents worth, the simplest way I have found, is sweat soldering.
First off, I make my solder paste, solder paste can be bought, (Google solder paste) if you want to throw away money, but I just take a roll of tin solder, without
flux, that plumbers use for water pipes, or you can use any solder, just melt it into a good shape so that you can file it easily.
Take a CLEAN metal file for fine shavings, or a wood file for larger shavings, and file the amount of solder paste you will be using.
I next add a little RF (rework flux)
to the shavings and mix it, 
no need for lots of flux, then divide it into somewhat equal portions for each pad.
I then put a small portion of the solder on the pads and melt it using a hot air gun, or as I do a butane torch (like the crack heads use).
Make some what fast sweeps across the pads (DO NOT pause in one spot) until the dull paste goes shiny, it happens quickly. The pads have to be masked off, or else the
solder will flow out to a thin layer along the traces and the components will not bond well to the board. After the solder has cooled, If the pads look like they need more solder,
ad some and flash heat it, if there is to much then remove some using a scraping or shaving type method. put some rework flux
on the pads using a tooth pick or small brush, remember that SMD uses very little solder or flux, think small. I use a tooth pick, because a tiny drop holds the component better.
Next, now position your components on the pads, I use a tooth pick and a tap, tap, push method. The flux helps to hold the components in place, but it
will not take much to mess up everything so I would only do 5 or 6 until you feel you have it. Then just sweep the torch across the components until the
solder goes shiny.
And if one or two pads failed to flow, then flux'em and flame'em. It happens very fast even at low temp. so if you haven't used a torch much, try pointing it
at the components for just a quick half second pluses.
Sorry about the photos, all I have is a cell phone camera, and the subject is tiny.
components soldered 0603, 0805
The best thing about this method is the short time that the components are exposed to high temps, and they don't normally move.
Later I'll give my 2 cents worth on making PCB's, but that will take a while.
First off, I make my solder paste, solder paste can be bought, (Google solder paste) if you want to throw away money, but I just take a roll of tin solder, without
flux, that plumbers use for water pipes, or you can use any solder, just melt it into a good shape so that you can file it easily.
Take a CLEAN metal file for fine shavings, or a wood file for larger shavings, and file the amount of solder paste you will be using.
I next add a little RF (rework flux)
I then put a small portion of the solder on the pads and melt it using a hot air gun, or as I do a butane torch (like the crack heads use).
Make some what fast sweeps across the pads (DO NOT pause in one spot) until the dull paste goes shiny, it happens quickly. The pads have to be masked off, or else the
solder will flow out to a thin layer along the traces and the components will not bond well to the board. After the solder has cooled, If the pads look like they need more solder,
ad some and flash heat it, if there is to much then remove some using a scraping or shaving type method. put some rework flux
on the pads using a tooth pick or small brush, remember that SMD uses very little solder or flux, think small. I use a tooth pick, because a tiny drop holds the component better.
Next, now position your components on the pads, I use a tooth pick and a tap, tap, push method. The flux helps to hold the components in place, but it
will not take much to mess up everything so I would only do 5 or 6 until you feel you have it. Then just sweep the torch across the components until the
solder goes shiny.
And if one or two pads failed to flow, then flux'em and flame'em. It happens very fast even at low temp. so if you haven't used a torch much, try pointing it
at the components for just a quick half second pluses.
Sorry about the photos, all I have is a cell phone camera, and the subject is tiny.
components soldered 0603, 0805
The best thing about this method is the short time that the components are exposed to high temps, and they don't normally move.
Later I'll give my 2 cents worth on making PCB's, but that will take a while.
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