3D printed detector

[BKY1337]

You can harden the 3D printed parts in the oven. So the layers will melt together.
I saw this board somewhere yesterday. Name of the MD was Krot or something like that.
I guess it was a microcontroller based vlf detector.

[kosacid]

or just print them flat

[Tibuck19]

You can harden the 3D printed parts in the oven. So the layers will melt together.
I saw this board somewhere yesterday. Name of the MD was Krot or something like that.
I guess it was a microcontroller based vlf detector.

Not to be the negative nanny, im only trying to give you guys the benefits of my experience, I have also tried that, I was so convinced of that, to the point of buying 3 rolls of HTPLA, but sadly it still not strong enough, and when you factor in the added price of the more expensive filament plus oven warm up cost and the extra calculations due to shrinkage ( which is hard to figure out because it never shrinks the same way twice), your better off buying a stem loll . Im sure you seen this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZX8eHC7fws

I think the board is a Kpot or something still doesn't really apply to the boards we find on Geotech.

[BKY1337]

My ABS rod to coil connector also broke and i decided to buy a whole shaft.
It wasnt hardened. I think you can use molding sand to hold the piece in place while it tis in the oven.

I would suggest to buy the fiberglass rod and print the rest of the parts with the 3d printer.

You could also use plastic rods like acetal (POM).

[Tibuck19]

My ABS rod to coil connector also broke and i decided to buy a whole shaft.
It wasnt hardened. I think you can use molding sand to hold the piece in place while it tis in the oven.

I would suggest to buy the fiberglass rod and print the rest of the parts with the 3d printer.

You could also use plastic rods like acetal (POM).

Holding parts in sand while heating is actually a very good idea , I have oven rotisserie pot thing that is half filled with sand, which I use to dry nylon filament over the wood stove ( see photos) ) I will print a few test pieces and try to anile them in the sand.

What I use for stems now is 1/2 inch and a 1 inch PVC pipe, I cut to length and place the 1/2 inch on the wood lathe and reduce the OD so that it slips into the 1 inch pipe. It works out rather well and doesn't take long to make them fit lose enough to slide and still be snug enough to be stiff when swinging a coil around.

[BKY1337]

This could work. But i meant molding sand which can be compressed.

[Tibuck19]

I'm sure the molding sand would do a better job, Sadly I have none, it would be nice to have a sand molding kit just the for fun of making printed parts and making a metal object from them , I do have a SLA printer but have not tried any the wax resins yet, that could also be interesting lol but slightly off topic lol

[kosacid]

I don't know what you guys are doing but i have never broke anything. I have hit mine of boulders and every thing but i used pla

[Tibuck19]

I don't know what you guys are doing but i have never broke anything. I have hit mine of boulders and every thing but i used pla

Are you just printing the box or the coil and stems ?

[kosacid]

its all printed apart from the stem that folds, the bottom stem is printed my kids barra has had some treatment lol in she has never broke nothing, it must be the way your all printing them

[macross]

I have found that ABS plastic when 3d printed is really weak compared even to PLA. The main issue I had with abs was poor layer adhesion and also high shrinkage factor (also abs fumes... ahh!). I have bought a roll of PETG filament. It's made from same type of plastic as soda bottles with addition of Glycol. Layer adhesion of this plastic is fantastic! I could not break layers apart with pliers and also it's easy to print almost like PLA so you guys should give this plastic a try. Also you could try increasing 3d printed part strength with some sort of epoxy coating.

[Chiv]

just finished some battery holders for a compass 77b that I required through ebay. missing some parts and not working so good repaired board and all is sweet with detector but had to make up some cr123a battery holders to fit in battery box, next will be a cover for speaker and battery box cover/lock. they even fit my xt17000ml so bonus.so put it in a zip file and posted here if you would like to use it

[Tibuck19]

I have found that ABS plastic when 3d printed is really weak compared even to PLA. The main issue I had with abs was poor layer adhesion and also high shrinkage factor (also abs fumes... ahh!). I have bought a roll of PETG filament. It's made from same type of plastic as soda bottles with addition of Glycol. Layer adhesion of this plastic is fantastic! I could not break layers apart with pliers and also it's easy to print almost like PLA so you guys should give this plastic a try. Also you could try increasing 3d printed part strength with some sort of epoxy coating.

ABS is one of the first plastics used for 3d printing, Go back 20 plus years, Stratasys were printing only in abs, and even to this day, any high-end top of the line printers, are still using ABS as the main filament. If your getting poor layer adhesion with abs, its only because your not printing hot enough, have a poor enclose for your printer does not help. I have been 3D printing for last 6 or 7 years, and even to this day, ABS is still my go to filament, never had bed or layer adhesion issues. yes there is XY shrinkage but easily solved by modeling parts 0.4 bigger along those plains or use the XY compensation option that most slicers have. As for Fumes, there really isn't that much more then with any other plastics. But I do agree PETG is rather simple to print, strong layer bonding, but it swells a lot and parts never come out as good as they would with PLA or ABS, If your printing Moving parts that are printed as one go ( Example a planetary gear...) , PETG well bond the parts together making it useless. Plus lets not forget, PETG is a pain in the a@@ to glue or sand and finish! That being said I do use PETG for the detectors , Mainly for the arm rest.

[Chiv]

Tibuck19
Have you tried any of the copper, bronze, ally type of blends? was thinking of making a control box housing for next project out of it for shielding. I will take ohm meter with me and check it out next time I go to the big smoke to get more filament. I was wondering why you use PETG for arm rests, or is it a plastic against the skin type of thing?

[Tibuck19]

Tibuck19
Have you tried any of the copper, bronze, ally type of blends? was thinking of making a control box housing for next project out of it for shielding. I will take ohm meter with me and check it out next time I go to the big smoke to get more filament. I was wondering why you use PETG for arm rests, or is it a plastic against the skin type of thing?

I have not tried the Copper or bronze for boxes I have tried the conductive pla and iron pla but its not enough for shielding or another usefulness, I even tried using them as a core for the coil sadly, it Didn't do much hahaha. As for the armrest, why I use PETG for is only because it easy to print and the armrest is a larger part, but most of all because PETG White, is VERY WHITE, Gleaming almost I like it a lot, unlike ABS in white which for some reason always has little cream color to it, I tried many brands and ABS white is never white white , If you know what I mean.