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  • 3d printed control box

    Hey Everyone,

    I've been looking all around for a good box to use for the pcb and controls for my metal detector projects. So far I haven't been too happy with the choices that I found. I have access to a 3d printer at my local library so I was searching for boxes on thingiverse and came accross a bunch of different box makers but this custom box maker caught my eye since it lets you make holes for the potentiometers and switches on the faceplate and back plate.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2938921


    You will need to download an open source cad program called Openscad, and it must be the newest development snapshot for it to work: http://www.openscad.org/downloads.html#snapshots

    I attached a box I've been building for my TGSL, its still a work in progress such as the markings for the Discrimination(iron, foil, tabs, etc) might not be in the actual correct location on my discrimination potentiometer. The colors are also adjustable but these colors made it easy to see what changes I was making.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	TGSL_Box.png
Views:	1
Size:	38.9 KB
ID:	370799

    Hope this helps someone out there!

    TGSL_Box.zip

  • #2
    Molding rules

    Considering, that printing of such case will require a LOT of time and effort (then carbon spray and all that time consuming work), why dont we order proper molding tool and let some small injection mold company produce housings for our devices?

    For example something like Tesoro have:

    http://www.tesoro.com/product/detect...ages/tejfp.jpg

    Or whatever you consider as more SEXY

    Because - As I was told by molding coleagues from work, Thaiwan now produce tools for injection molding for price near 1000€ (1 cavity and size like that tesoro case + flat front panel). Molding can be done with conductive powders, UV filters and whatever you can imagine. So in one hit you have super light (still very stiff) shielded case. You can use plastic front panel or just mill aluminium front panel and change it - still it will be grounded by using single screw and wire to gnd! Its big enough to hold bigger display, batteries, connectors and many knobs...

    I can draw case on professional level. I can prepare moldflow analysis (not by myself, but I have tens of coleagues, who has tens years of experience with injection molding of parts up to 500x500x500mm and even bigger) and I can obtain all necessary informations, conductive, UV, lightening, glassfiber and similar additional material requirements and documentation.

    I am not sure about final piece price, but I suspect something like 2€ for 1000pcs order.

    The same can be done with coil housings, but for each type you need new tool...

    BUT - I am too poor to do it by just myself and offer it here or by silverdog/anyone who can do it in other continents.

    That is why I never sell anything - I am designer, not salesman

    I can not imagine, how many users would like to order such case. If this will be done, I will throw away all my (expensive and super heavy aluminium beasts) like 10 hopusings in one smooth movement into garbage.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by yatahaze323 View Post
      Hey Everyone,

      I've been looking all around for a good box to use for the pcb and controls for my metal detector projects. So far I haven't been too happy with the choices that I found. I have access to a 3d printer at my local library so I was searching for boxes on thingiverse and came accross a bunch of different box makers but this custom box maker caught my eye since it lets you make holes for the potentiometers and switches on the faceplate and back plate.

      https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2938921


      You will need to download an open source cad program called Openscad, and it must be the newest development snapshot for it to work: http://www.openscad.org/downloads.html#snapshots

      I attached a box I've been building for my TGSL, its still a work in progress such as the markings for the Discrimination(iron, foil, tabs, etc) might not be in the actual correct location on my discrimination potentiometer. The colors are also adjustable but these colors made it easy to see what changes I was making.

      [ATTACH]43939[/ATTACH]

      Hope this helps someone out there!

      [ATTACH]43938[/ATTACH]
      I 3d print all my Metal detectors encloses, I also 3d print a built in battery packs, which is what I use for the TGSL, the only thing is you need to do is, ground plane the inside, I use one of two methods that seem to work well, 1.) you can use super77 3M adhesive and spray one side of Kitchen aluminum foil and lace the inside of your box with and put a piece of wire to connect to ground, 2.) Use Copper tape,( cheap roles on Amazon, its longer to do then the foil but works great in the corners. Looking at the jpg of your box, unless you use a 0.25 nozzle, a FDM printer will have a hard time printing out the lettering of your box, I save my self built time by making a face plate sticker for the fronts.

      Comment


      • #4
        Hyena
        I think someone like silverdog could easily sell a box to go along with the kits he's selling. But a 3d printed box would be easier for me to deal with.

        Tibuck19
        Thanks for the advice regarding the ground plane I wasn't even thinking that it would need it. Would aluminum tape work as well? Such as this https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Tape.../dp/B01FROBUXE just asking cause I think I have some of this already.

        I have no idea what size nozzle my library uses but you're right it would be better to just design a face plate sticker, that way if my control lettering/design need adjusting I could just reprint a new sticker and put it on top of the old one.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by yatahaze323 View Post
          Hey Everyone,

          I've been looking all around for a good box to use for the pcb and controls for my metal detector projects. So far I haven't been too happy with the choices that I found. I have access to a 3d printer at my local library so I was searching for boxes on thingiverse and came accross a bunch of different box makers but this custom box maker caught my eye since it lets you make holes for the potentiometers and switches on the faceplate and back plate.

          https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2938921


          You will need to download an open source cad program called Openscad, and it must be the newest development snapshot for it to work: http://www.openscad.org/downloads.html#snapshots

          I attached a box I've been building for my TGSL, its still a work in progress such as the markings for the Discrimination(iron, foil, tabs, etc) might not be in the actual correct location on my discrimination potentiometer. The colors are also adjustable but these colors made it easy to see what changes I was making.

          [ATTACH]43939[/ATTACH]

          Hope this helps someone out there!

          [ATTACH]43938[/ATTACH]
          This is a good idea, make the front and back panel from single side PCB, line the box with copper foil tape , solder a couple of wires and bingo all done

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by yatahaze323 View Post
            Hyena
            I think someone like silverdog could easily sell a box to go along with the kits he's selling. But a 3d printed box would be easier for me to deal with.

            Tibuck19
            Thanks for the advice regarding the ground plane I wasn't even thinking that it would need it. Would aluminum tape work as well? Such as this https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Tape.../dp/B01FROBUXE just asking cause I think I have some of this already.

            I have no idea what size nozzle my library uses but you're right it would be better to just design a face plate sticker, that way if my control lettering/design need adjusting I could just reprint a new sticker and put it on top of the old one.
            The problem I found with aluminum tape is, the sticky(the adhesive ) part is not conductive unlike copper tape which it is. if you want to use the tape you have, you will have to make a physical connection to each tape you lay down.

            Comment


            • #7
              Got it, I'll buy some copper tape!

              Comment

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