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The void under the mount area could probably use a bit of work - I got a bit lazy at that stage and was impatient to print it, hence the simple box shape.
Hopefully big enough for my tuning loop...
No worries.
There is a spreadsheet within the Freecad design which has the adjustable parameters if you want to tweak it.
I use quite a small grommet so you may want to enlarge the hole.
This is about the biggest I can get on my Ender 3 printer..
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Hi Olly
Nice piece of work.
I have neve got to grips with FreeCAD so it looks like I need to explore it a little more.
I too have an Ender 3D printer and I am currently experimenting with a filament that is new to me. This is ASA-X which is UV resistant and impact resistant. No quite as forgiving as PLA. My best results achieved so far are with nozzle temperature of 260, bed temperature of 110 and no cooling. Adhesion to the bed is a bit of a problem so I have to print a beard or brim. I think an enclosure would be beneficial as the print is susceptible to fluctuations in ambient temperature. If the print has to be in several sections, then these can be glued together with Everbuild industrial superglue and and accelerator. Any tips on 3D printing gratefully received
I've been using eSun PLA+ and printing at 210 with a bed temp of 60 - quite a bit stronger than normal PLA. I've never tried ASA-X but sounds like I should give it a try.
If you're having adhesion problems then I find that a good layer of hairspray on the glass works wonders. Sticks like crazy when hot and then pops off very easily when cold.
Please could you also post the FCStd file for FreeCAD?
When I load the stl file in Repetier Host, it says that the model is non-manifold (i.e. it's not watertight) which may cause a problem during slicing.
Thanks Olly good job, the file is not water tight but for win10 users just import into 3D builder and hit fix and then save.
I've been using eSun PLA+ and printing at 210 with a bed temp of 60 - quite a bit stronger than normal PLA. I've never tried ASA-X but sounds like I should give it a try.
If you're having adhesion problems then I find that a good layer of hairspray on the glass works wonders. Sticks like crazy when hot and then pops off very easily when cold.
Are you guys using glass on the bed? I want to make the conversion, adding a layer of glass (2-3mm) and readjust the sensor or replace with capacitive one. The reason why i do these is because the aluminium bed seems to bend when hot and also started to peel the top sticker, sometimes my prints start to lift from corners (is this because the temperature or bad filament?). Did you use the hair spray on glass bed? I ordered from aliexpress some tube glue, will see how it perform.
Yep I've got the Ender 3 V2 which comes with a glass bed. I use the hairspray directly onto the glass bed (take the glass off before spraying it as the hairspray is sticky and you don't want that all over your printer). Make sure you get a good thick coat of hairspray and let it dry properly before printing. I've not had a print start to peel up since I started using hairspray. Good luck.
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