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Vacuum forming coil housings.

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  • #46
    Originally posted by Mullihaka View Post
    Hi folks,

    How do you keep the coils in place when pouring in the epoxy?

    How about pouring it in in the peripheral area only on the first run and leave the overlapping section free. When the first cast is hard, then pouring the rest and hoping the best. Does the wet epoxy melt the dried one so that when casting in two phases we get a solid, one lump (instead of two blocks, which are not stuck together)?
    Hi, Mullihaka.

    I set my shells on 3 blocks of wood before pouring epoxy. The important thing is that the surface that you lay your shells on is perfectly level. I use a ruler with a glass level inside.

    Then, I do a single pour as epoxy has a hard time bonding to itself. I have seen where you can bond a second pour to a cured layer by adding a top layer of fiberglass or cotton to the top of the first before it cures.

    Here is another tip: Put your epoxy into a squeeze bottle that has a nipple on the end. Then you can squirt the epoxy more exactly where you want it to go. I use an empty plastic bottle for contact lens solution.

    Don

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    • #47
      Originally posted by petravka View Post
      It looks to original
      Excellent work, petravka. Congratulation!

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      • #48
        Hi dfbowers,

        Sorry, bad wording here! I mean, what prevents the coils from moving when pouring the epoxy in? The density of the epoxy may be close to that of the taped coil, so it might even lift the coil a bit thus spoiling the balance.

        Do you spot glue the nulled coils in place with hot glue or something before the epoxy time?

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        • #49
          Originally posted by Mullihaka View Post
          Hi dfbowers,

          Sorry, bad wording here! I mean, what prevents the coils from moving when pouring the epoxy in? The density of the epoxy may be close to that of the taped coil, so it might even lift the coil a bit thus spoiling the balance.

          Do you spot glue the nulled coils in place with hot glue or something before the epoxy time?
          Yes, I just use CA glue to secure the coils first. I also find it helpful to glue a few strips of plastic (scraps from making the shells) as a little bridge between the Tx and Rx coils where they overlap. They are less likely to shift as the epoxy cures.

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          • #50
            coil vacuum former

            can some one please post plans on how to make former itself assembly etc?

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            • #51
              You mean the vacuum form box or the wooden form for the shell?

              Don

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              • #52
                The vacuum form box

                I'm looking for plans for the box or jig I've got my coil mold form made

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                • #53
                  i hope this is what you mean http://www.instructables.com/id/Make...-plastic-vacu/
                  http://www.tk560.com/vactable4.html
                  greetings from the harz montains

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                  • #54
                    Don,
                    7. Cable – Type will depend upon what your project specifies. I use a USB – 2 cable for my TGSL coils
                    .

                    In a standard USB cable there are 2 thick wires for the 5V power supply and 2 differential signal wires.
                    How do you connect the 2 coils in a double D configuration ?
                    Use the 2 power wires for one coil and the signal wires for the other?

                    Best regards,
                    - Bernard

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                    • #55
                      Originally posted by F117 View Post
                      Don,
                      .

                      In a standard USB cable there are 2 thick wires for the 5V power supply and 2 differential signal wires.
                      How do you connect the 2 coils in a double D configuration ?
                      Use the 2 power wires for one coil and the signal wires for the other?

                      Best regards,
                      - Bernard
                      Yes, the USB cable seems to work just fine for the TGSL projects. A better choice may be Belden - M 8723 depending on what project you are building, but is basically the same thing with individually shielded pairs. The bottom image is what I prefer:
                      Attached Files

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                      • #56
                        Originally posted by Merc View Post
                        Just thought I would mention that my Hays Electronics coil housing came with a strain relief marked Hummel PG7. It looks just like the Heyco model. It seems they do sell it separately for $1.90.
                        http://www.hayselectronics.com/parts.htm

                        Merc

                        I realize this is somewhat old but if anyone is interested you can get strain relief the same size (PG7) for $.71 from www.elecdirect.com. Part number RF07AA.

                        Regards,
                        Dennis

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                        • #57
                          Originally posted by neptune769 View Post
                          I realize this is somewhat old but if anyone is interested you can get strain relief the same size (PG7) for $.71 from www.elecdirect.com. Part number RF07AA.

                          Regards,
                          Dennis
                          Hi
                          You can also get them from farnells for about the same money

                          Regards

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                          • #58
                            I bought a triple coaxial chinch to chinch 10m extension cord for double audio + video because it was cheaper than other options, it is flexible and looks better. I'll remove the chinch plugs for my purposes.

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                            • #59
                              https://www.ebay.com/itm/metal-detec...-127632-2357-0

                              it might be someone interested

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                              • #60
                                Originally posted by ionut_mtb View Post
                                I believe those forms are from an old member on Geotech "Charles from upstate New York". He was making coils and water proof Explorers and Etracs. Thats a good deal if you have a vacuum former also includes the winding forms

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