DIY shaft info

[greybeard]

I've done a search for 'shafts' and haven't managed to dig up much info.

What have people done/used for a shaft for the detector projects?

I can purchase 'minelab' spares but at around aud100 a set for some tubing i think I can do better for a homebuilt project.

[moodz]

I've done a search for 'shafts' and haven't managed to dig up much info.

What have people done/used for a shaft for the detector projects?

I can purchase 'minelab' spares but at around aud100 a set for some tubing i think I can do better for a homebuilt project.

You can get two walking sticks for $45 new on Ebay. They have the arm cuff and ergonomic hand grip. Just replace the lower section with 1 inch PVC electrical conduit and you are in business.

[greybeard]

thanks mate.
ebay it is ( or some unsuspecting walking stick user having a rest )

[mikebg]

I've done a search for 'shafts' and haven't managed to dig up much info.

What have people done/used for a shaft for the detector projects?

Greyberd, search for "fishing rod" and "Made in China"! I made myself a shaft from fishing rod, that cost me 3€ and weight 0.09kg. Unfortunately, the sensing head weights much, much more.

[J_Player]

I made a straight shaft for a Minelab from an aluminum tube intended as a painter's extension similar to a broomstick from the hardware store.
I found a hand grip at the local bicycle shop, and put it together for around $14 US. There is a spare hand grip since they come in sets of two.

[dfbowers]

I made a straight shaft for a Minelab from an aluminum tube intended as a painter's extension similar to a broomstick from the hardware store.
I found a hand grip at the local bicycle shop, and put it together for around $14 US. There is a spare hand grip since they come in sets of two.

I pick up lower rods at a local White's distributer for about $12.00. It's around 19mm in diameter and includes the bottom clevis, nylon bolt and rubber washers. What's the internal diameter of your rods look like?

Don

[detectoman]

hubbbbb i made complete lrl whit five hvs video cassete container, soon i have repair my camera for i send photos
the extremely poor ranger materials trash design

[MagnetMan]

Hi Everyone,

I used poplar wood to fabricate shafts and the hinges for the coils. I attached the two parts with nylon bolts, washers, and nuts. They may not be the lightest, but they are very strong and rigid. More importantly, it is fairly easy to mount other components directly to the wood.

[kuraja]

J_Player...

I have had exactly the same idea. What's your impression on the working properties of such design? Is it comfortable enough?

[J_Player]

J_Player...

I have had exactly the same idea. What's your impression on the working properties of such design? Is it comfortable enough?

It was at least twice as comfortable as the factory shaft. I put this shaft on an older Minelab Excalibur with the electronics pod on the shaft and the battery pod hip-mounted. My arm still got tired after a few hours, but it was a lot better than the factory setup. It is important to adjust the shaft length and position of the electronics for a good balance so your arm does not get fatigued. It worked best for me when I kept the shaft short and mounted the electronics pod back under my arm. Some people use bungies to tug the shaft weight off their arm and up to their shoulder. The newer Excalibur coils are lighter which may allow a longer shaft and a larger sweep without your arm getting tired. I recommend the straight shaft over the factory shaft for an Excalibur and other detectors that have a heavy coil. In cases where you have a lightweight detector with a display head in the grip I would stick with the factory S-shaft. The reason I wanted a straight shaft is to keep my arm from getting sore from the heavy coil. Since the Excalibur has no display, there is no need to keep your hand and display high like the factory shafts do to make it easy to read the dispay.

I pick up lower rods at a local White's distributer for about $12.00. It's around 19mm in diameter and includes the bottom clevis, nylon bolt and rubber washers. What's the internal diameter of your rods look like?

I used the original Minelab detector and swapped out my tubing for the factory shaft. I used the same fiberglass bottom clevice rod attached to the coil. The tube I used was a painter's extension pole from the local hardware store 0.875 inch OD (22mm) and 0.045 inch wall thickness (1.14mm). It was the right size for the bicycle hand grip, and the inside was ok to fit the fiberglass stub shaft for the coil. I cut the shaft to length, then drilled holes for the spring pin retainers and mounting screws. The inside of this tube has a seam which I sanded smoother in the end where the fiberglass rod slips in. See below:

[greybeard]

some great ideas out there, thanks for sharing

[Tilladude]

Here's a couple of pics of my CPVC pole. I used 1" for the forearm & grip, a 45° elbow from forearm to grip and a grip to pole with a 1" to ½" reducer. On the other end I reamed out the ½" to accept the coil attachment nose piece I got from Hayes Electronics. I suspend Tx/Rx on my chest with a harness.

Dennis

[mikebg]

Greyberd, search for "fishing rod" and "Made in China"! I made myself a shaft from fishing rod, that cost me 3€ and weight 0.09kg. Unfortunately, the sensing head weights much, much more.

I bought for 3 Euro a Chinese fishing rod, which retracted length is 115 cm, and in the extended position is 5 meters long. Only the outer tube is 115 cm long, the inside tubes are 110 cm. Suince two tubes are very thin, of these tubes I made three metal detectors only. That means a shaft costs me 1€.

[Tilladude]

Sounds like money wisely spent, which is the whole purpose of DIY.

Take care and happy hunting,
Dennis

[timmysys]

Thanks for all advice

I build my straight shaft.
Thanks again, to you guys for all the pics and suggestions