Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Compass XP Pro schematic needed

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Compass XP Pro schematic needed

    I haven't seen anything on this unit. I have one that I am considering taking apart to study, but why bother if someone already has the schematic.

    Merc

  • #2
    schematic is only a dream... in a world everybody thinks a vintage is superb. on a price.... we have not a chance to buy the detector to give everybody the schematic.
    I would like to search photos inside... may be then this dream will disappear like a smoke on the water will do... not magic in these things... open the box... PCB is a schematic... in HARDWARE state.

    Comment


    • #3
      Here are some pics I took of the inside of my XP-Pro.
      Last edited by Merc; 09-26-2009, 03:02 PM. Reason: Pics too big. Let me scale them and re-post.

      Comment


      • #4
        Some resized pics of my XP-Pro.
        Attached Files

        Comment


        • #5
          Merc, photos are great... thanks. I did not think Compass is so advanced mashine... have change my opinion... I try back tracing of Bounty Hunter-4... although I do not wish to tell about before the work has been ended ... for example as I do it... I printed this image and draw all connections in 2 colours according 2 PCB sides.
          Attached Files

          Comment


          • #6
            Did you ever complete reverse of this BH4? Can you put whatever you have here for me please, Photos etc. of pcb

            Comment


            • #7
              Same main board as the XP-350, XP-350 0n the right and the XP-PRO on the left. I have both and the differences are very minor.Click image for larger version

Name:	100_4948.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	353.9 KB
ID:	350489

              Comment


              • #8
                i desolder whole board. you have to see careful job - no damages.
                this is king cobra pcb top. scanned pic, no camera made.
                no ICs, no resistors, no wires there. clear board pic. then we can begin new project.
                Attached Files

                Comment


                • #9
                  a board on last stage before fully desoldering.
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    KT-315
                    You know how to do it, is how I do it. Take clear flat bed scans, each stage of parts removal.

                    Flat bed scanner, no digital camera photos. I even suck the solder out of the pad holes myself. I can then take a flat bed scan of board. put into computer, end up with precise 1:1 board. I can duplicate a dimple imperfection in the board if I want to.

                    Lots of work goes into it. Only a person who does it right knows how much work goes into it. I like to start with factory schematics, as with Compass, sometimes parts not marked correctly, to throw reverse engineering attempts off. So with factory schematics, I have REAL part numbers and values. But if you do not have schematics, you work from flat bed scanner photos and de-pot the board, part by part. If there is actually potting on the board, I can dissolve it with chemicals.

                    I even have units so I can read capacitors "in circuit" to see if they are good or bad capacitors. All I lack is a Bridge unit device and X-Ray machine. Other then that, I have units that can read some parts even if part numbers and names ground off, as far as discrete parts of course! I have some machines, which can read secured chips. Not all chips of course, just some chips.

                    Professional? You bet you are....

                    It is the only way to go. If I take a photo with digital camera, it only the last resort, and then I only use Leica digital camera. I can take a photo of a room, enlarge it and see fly (or miller) poop on ceiling in corner of room! Not being gross, just explaining how Leica camera works!

                    I am restoring factory Compass X-100 TID schematic right now. It will take me another week of working each day to do it. When I eventually get done, I can print out a book on it, if I wanted to. Lots of hours of time spent on work and money spent to accomplish it. Reverse engineering costs money and time spent in doing the work. Do you go and work at your employers office for free? No you do not! No one works for nothing.

                    When I get done, it will be so clear I can print it out on sheet as small as 11 x 17 and still read every part number and part value. But that is as small as I can go on paper size. To explain, I start out with a 24 x 30 size schematic, and it ends up on 11 x 17 sheet, and is more clear and precise on that smaller sheet, then it was on the larger sheet of paper. How is this done? Excellent clear work is how.

                    I take vintage maps, perform lots of work on the, and I can duplicate and print out the vintage map, even better then the original vintage map. Most of my work is done on vintage maps and vintage photographs.
                    Melbeta

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I wouldn't want to put that much time into a 30 year old design because there is no reason to. I put enough time into this already. It is more just for reference if somebody needs to troubleshoot or wants to see the design. I try to give something back because I really appreciate all the schematics that have been shared with me. I know the time people have in them. There are much better low noise

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by dbanner View Post
                        Did you ever complete reverse of this BH4? Can you put whatever you have here for me please, Photos etc. of pcb
                        still no. BH4 is perfect project DB. i am keeping in mind to make it oneday.
                        Attached Files

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Thanks, this is exactly what I need. I like the two tone feature in discriminate mode, but depth is not good. I saw somewhere on forum an attempt to modify for more depth, ended in failure. Do you think it worth reversing this one?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Someone posted this schematic a while back. I could not find the original thread. But it is a starting place.
                            Attached Files

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Thanks very much. I was looking for this schematic I saw somewhere but couldn't remember the thread. Here is another circuit board of tracker, same chips and components, so must be very close to tracker 4. This through-hole board would be easy to reproduce, if only there were mods for greater depth in disc. mode. Maybe good for experimenting.
                              Maybe I should start new thread.
                              Attached Files

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X