Garrett Euro ACE Speaker Volume

[Funfinder]

The Euro ACE is the new optimized model of the ACE 250.
This detector is improved for the European ground conditions,
comes with enhanced iron-disc-resolution and 28 x 22 cm DD coil.
The sound volume however still only is regulatable by the new phones.

Modifying the EuroAce to get speakers volume control is pretty simple:


Needed parts:

variable resistor with values from ca. 100 - 2000 Ohms
2 wires, 10cm (4'')
soldering iron and tin

what to do:

: unscrew coil-cable-connector, phone-plug and the both black screws
: remove LCD panel unit that also contains the PCB
: cut just one of the speaker cables, solder wires and isolate
: melt 3 tiny holes through plastic near batteries (see below)
: insert small variable resistor there
: solder the ends of the both cables to the resistor pins
(1: one of the 2 pins nearby; 2: the single pin opposite)
: melt or superglue small plastic piece carefully to the resistor so you
don't have to use a screwdriver each time to adjust the volume
: check out that the new cable uses a free room inside the case
: close cover and attach screws as they were before

Good Luck!


Note 1: This mod only affects the speakers volume.
If you want adjustable headphonevolume use one like
of those new ones that comes with the Garrett Euro-ACE.

Note 2: Depending on the variable resistor you are using
expect a slightly weaker volume on full as it is in orignial.
Those resistors have minimum restiances from 10 to 50 Ohms
depending on the model so volume will be slighly lower than
without the variable resistor - but it doesn't matter much.

Note 3: After mod. always open & close batterycase-cover
carefully by sliding horizontally or you may rip off the knob
or even damage the variable resistor.

[kt315]

for Garrett ACE-350/250 I make the mod another way.

[Oatz]

Are those bread ties?

[Funfinder]

What?

[TV Repair Guy]

Adding resistance also changes the ohms valve and may cause the audio outputs to blow

I've seen a few of these Garrett Ace machines up for sale on eBay stating no audio but the meter works fine and suspect this to be the problem, I would use less resistence just to play it safe.

The Euro ACE is the new optimized model of the ACE 250.
This detector is improved for the European ground conditions,
comes with enhanced iron-disc-resolution and 28 x 22 cm DD coil.
The sound volume however still only is regulatable by the new phones.

Modifying the EuroAce to get speakers volume control is pretty simple:


Needed parts:

variable resistor with values from ca. 100 - 2000 Ohms
2 wires, 10cm (4'')
soldering iron and tin

what to do:

: unscrew coil-cable-connector, phone-plug and the both black screws
: remove LCD panel unit that also contains the PCB
: cut just one of the speaker cables, solder wires and isolate
: melt 3 tiny holes through plastic near batteries (see below)
: insert small variable resistor there
: solder the ends of the both cables to the resistor pins
(1: one of the 2 pins nearby; 2: the single pin opposite)
: melt or superglue small plastic piece carefully to the resistor so you
don't have to use a screwdriver each time to adjust the volume
: check out that the new cable uses a free room inside the case
: close cover and attach screws as they were before

Good Luck!


Note 1: This mod only affects the speakers volume.
If you want adjustable headphonevolume use one like
of those new ones that comes with the Garrett Euro-ACE.

Note 2: Depending on the variable resistor you are using
expect a slightly weaker volume on full as it is in orignial.
Those resistors have minimum restiances from 10 to 50 Ohms
depending on the model so volume will be slighly lower than
without the variable resistor - but it doesn't matter much.

Note 3: After mod. always open & close batterycase-cover
carefully by sliding horizontally or you may rip off the knob
or even damage the variable resistor.

[Funfinder]

well, perhaps "shortcut" solutions as the one from kt315 ("drain") may cause something to blow but for shure not
a resistor directly before the speaker.

The circuit of the audio signal or in other words the signal way of the amplified audio frequency that goes to
ground via the speaker already is perfectly tough enough for the maximum of provided sound electricity.

Adding a resistor before the speaker makes this circuit even more safer and less power consuming.


Don't confuse the direct ohm values of speakers.
Using the same amp a 4 Ohm speaker has higher efficience (is louder) than an 8 Ohm speaker.

But using a resistor before a speaker (in total a higher value, as example 8 Ohm plus 50 Ohms)
will not change the speakers internal ohm sensitivity, it only weakens the speakers power.

[TV Repair Guy]

Do some research on what happens when the finals go into a loop, the way to do the mod correctly is to put a variable resistor pot up front in the preamp stages. Not knowing how to do this mod corectly is one thing but to just throw caution to the wind is another. What you don't understand is not that having enough resistance on the outputs will damage them.

[kt315]

well, perhaps "shortcut" solutions as the one from kt315 ("drain") may cause something to blow but for shure not
a resistor directly before the speaker.

you are interesting man. why you are so distrustful? nothing to blow out. my mod was been tested in REAL HUNTING AT FIELD. I write only I did by my hands about.

[TV Repair Guy]

distrustful? Its obvious that your knowledge is limited however someone one said please don't confuse me with the facts I've already made up my mind. Just trying to help, Best Wishes

[kt315]

thank you TV Repair Guy. its obvious your help is appreciated. made an especial photo. hh

[Funfinder]

@ kt315
Shure your solution works, nothing unusual there, as long as the involved parts
can handle the bypassing input. This way you can select a better volume range.

Another thing is the question: is it worth the more complexity at all?
For people who need the most possible loud volume output - yes
for most of the not expert mod interested ones - no

You may show us a little picture of the PCB how and where you have
soldered the contacts for the potentiometer.

btw. seems you have sacrificed your headphone-socket for the potentiometer...

@ TV Repair guy

What are ya talking about " (y)our knowledge is limited "?
If you have problems with such simple electronical solutions what are you doing when real problems occurs?

The expenditure to modify the PCBs amp-circuit for directly volume-tuning is far to high and risky
compared with my simple and therefore effective and great "mod to go" solution!

If you wanna dim the light in your living room do you use a variable resistor with triac diodes (dimmer) directly
before your lamp or do you call the electricity provider it should serve just 50 Volts instead of 230?

Sorry mate, but better criticize such things if you have real good arguments and if you can explain them
correctly and well understandable for everyone. We have had already enough persons who wanna make
everyone believe there fancy Long Range circuits or devices are real working etc.

The only problem that could occur with the by me described methodic is that the resistor or the poti
can burn if the volume power has really a huge amount of watts: don't use a 0.25 watt variable resistor
to regulate the P.A. of a Rock'n Roll concert that way!

[TV Repair Guy]

Show any electronics repair tech this Mickey Mouse circuit and they would laugh at you, again to offer help is not to criticize. I'll give you some Constructive criticism, don't let your pride get in the way as you'll never learn anything new.

[HECTOR]

The method that I used to install a volume control in my Cibola was to tap the audio output before the headphone jack by removing the yellow wire from the PCB and connecting a very small dual (stereo) 10K pot, paralleled to increase current capacity and lower resistance. I couldn't come up with any other logical places to locate it besides the butt of the shaft. (5K may not be ideal but it was handy in my junk pile) Obviously wired in series before the HP jack. As long as the audio amplifier sees MORE (or equal) resistance than the speaker, there won't be any problem. Having audio taper would be better but this has been working fine for over a year.
Cheers!

[Funfinder]

Show any electronics repair tech this Mickey Mouse circuit and they would laugh at you, again to offer help is not to criticize. I'll give you some Constructive criticism, don't let your pride get in the way as you'll never learn anything new.

> I'll give you some Constructive criticism

Wrong, all you try to do is profilate yourself by making simple and good working solutions stupidly overcomplicated!

The volume of almost any stupid radio can be controlled by a potentiometer directly infront of the speaker
but oh so professional types like you wanna try to make everything looking bad, wrong and dangerous.

You would never volume mod your Euro Ace or Ace 250 (and I have moded both already) because first
you had to rip completly the PCB apart with your super perfect thinking.

If you can tell us the big danger that my mod-solution contains, otherwise you're the mickey mouse!
I'm shure you can't, because otherwise you had did it already in the beginning.
You're just another opinion-spamer without any real proven facts.

And now please stop to mess up this fine thread with your useless arguments and halt to confuse all the
interested persons with a Garrett ACE that are happy about such a simple and good working modification!

[TV Repair Guy]

I would have even offered to help you do a real pro job but since you don't appreciate it who cares blow it up for all I care LOL