Vacuum forming coil housings.

[dfbowers]

Don.

[simonbaker]

Pass-through thingy

Hey Don:

On your coil housings, you have a nice "pass-through" guard thing (what's the actual term?) to protect the cable where it enters into the coil housing.

What are those, where do you get them, how do they go on the cable, etc?

Regards,

-SB

[dfbowers]

Hey Don:

On your coil housings, you have a nice "pass-through" guard thing (what's the actual term?) to protect the cable where it enters into the coil housing.

What are those, where do you get them, how do they go on the cable, etc?

Regards,

-SB

Nothing special there.. Just feed the strain relief through the bottom of the coil shell, the cable through the top, then crazy glue in place. The epoxy does the rest.

BTW.. This epoxy is great stuff! Nothing could be better.. except for the price. $28.00 though so still looking for a cheaper alternative. I get this through Mouser: 832B-375ML.

Also, if you want to complete a coil, I can send you a new shell that comes out a few ounces lighter. Also, the one I sent you might be too shallow (not sure though). I can adjust the distance between the ears a little to make it tighter to 19mm.

Don

[simonbaker]

Nothing special there.. Just feed the strain relief through the bottom of the coil shell, the cable through the top, then crazy glue in place. The epoxy does the rest.

BTW.. This epoxy is great stuff! Nothing could be better.. except for the price. $28.00 though so still looking for a cheaper alternative. I get this through Mouser: 832B-375ML.

Also, if you want to complete a coil, I can send you a new shell that comes out a few ounces lighter. Also, the one I sent you might be too shallow (not sure though). I can adjust the distance between the ears a little to make it tighter to 19mm.

Don

I think I get it. To confirm:

Am I correct that you sacrifice one connector of the USB cable, cutting close to the pins so the cable strain relief is still part of the cable, then just position the strain relief part to poke through the coil shell, and solder the coil wires to whatever is left when you cut the connector?

I am interested in your streamlined coil shell for some time later, it looks nice and light.

For now, I'm going to try a non-standard approach (as usual), and use your coil shell to make a mold. I will then just try to pour a coil housing in the mold, poking the cable through a hole in the mold. So my coil housing will be pure resin, no shell. I plan to paint it white.

SB

(If you're not failing, you're not trying hard enough...)

[dfbowers]

I think I get it. To confirm:

Am I correct that you sacrifice one connector of the USB cable, cutting close to the pins so the cable strain relief is still part of the cable, then just position the strain relief part to poke through the coil shell, and solder the coil wires to whatever is left when you cut the connector?

I am interested in your streamlined coil shell for some time later, it looks nice and light.

For now, I'm going to try a non-standard approach (as usual), and use your coil shell to make a mold. I will then just try to pour a coil housing in the mold, poking the cable through a hole in the mold. So my coil housing will be pure resin, no shell. I plan to paint it white.

SB

(If you're not failing, you're not trying hard enough...)

Yes, that's correct. If you do it right, you may even be able to leave the strain relief connected to the cable instead of removing it like I did. I just superglue it back on.

I think your mold idea might work. You might have to use a lot of wax though to get it to seperate. Maybe fibreglass reinforce?

[simonbaker]

Yes, that's correct. If you do it right, you may even be able to leave the strain relief connected to the cable instead of removing it like I did. I just superglue it back on.

I think your mold idea might work. You might have to use a lot of wax though to get it to seperate. Maybe fibreglass reinforce?

I think fiberglass would be desirable, I'll try first without it, see how brittle - learn the hard way.

I made a latex mold of the outside of your shell, we'll see what kind of stickiness I encounter. At least the latex can be ripped off if desperate (but it took weeks to make, layer by layer).

-SB

[dfbowers]

I think fiberglass would be desirable, I'll try first without it, see how brittle - learn the hard way.

I made a latex mold of the outside of your shell, we'll see what kind of stickiness I encounter. At least the latex can be ripped off if desperate (but it took weeks to make, layer by layer).

-SB

I was on a roll today..
I can crank one out about every 10 minutes.. but I have to find a faster way to cut them..

[simonbaker]

I was on a roll today..
I can crank one out about every 10 minutes.. but I have to find a faster way to cut them..

Hoowee -- i'm salivating...!

-SB

[hobbes_lives]

Nice work Don. Could you use a hot wire to cut them?

[dfbowers]

Nice work Don. Could you use a hot wire to cut them?

I can give it a try, but I'm wondering if it would just melt the plastic and weld back together after the wire passes. I've done model airplane foam wing cores before and the wire just vaporizes the foam as the wire passes.

[simonbaker]

Could you put a little dremel with a cutting tool in a jig, put the forms on your coil winder turntable, and rotate it around? (probably take me weeks to set up... not to mention plastic dust... never mind!)

Laser is the way to go! I think Goldfinger had one that would do nicely...

-SB

[dfbowers]

I think I get it. To confirm:

Am I correct that you sacrifice one connector of the USB cable, cutting close to the pins so the cable strain relief is still part of the cable, then just position the strain relief part to poke through the coil shell, and solder the coil wires to whatever is left when you cut the connector?

I am interested in your streamlined coil shell for some time later, it looks nice and light.

For now, I'm going to try a non-standard approach (as usual), and use your coil shell to make a mold. I will then just try to pour a coil housing in the mold, poking the cable through a hole in the mold. So my coil housing will be pure resin, no shell. I plan to paint it white.

SB


(If you're not failing, you're not trying hard enough...)

I finally found a source of "real" strain reliefs:



http://www.amazon.com/Heyco-PIGTAIL-LIQUID-CONNECTOR-package/dp/B001BQ02VE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1295455753&sr= 8-1

[simonbaker]

I finally found a source of "real" strain reliefs:



http://www.amazon.com/Heyco-PIGTAIL-...5455753&sr=8-1

Good to know, thanks!

-SB

[bernte_one]

hello don,

have you experience with polystyrol or is it better to use abs plastics?
I can buy polystyrol in large plates here in town (very cheap and easy to cut), but abs only per webshop (costs more).
Should i make a try with polystyrol or do you think it is crap.

http://www.modulor.de/shop/oxid.php/.../AAA/anid/AAAC

[dfbowers]

hello don,

have you experience with polystyrol or is it better to use abs plastics?
I can buy polystyrol in large plates here in town (very cheap and easy to cut), but abs only per webshop (costs more).
Should i make a try with polystyrol or do you think it is crap.

http://www.modulor.de/shop/oxid.php/.../AAA/anid/AAAC

No, I have no experience besides ABS and styrene. I would be tempted to use it as I have seen some websites suggesting that it can be theromformed. Maybe see if you can find suggested working temperatures?