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TESORO GOLDEN SABRE
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Hi
Hi,
Molzar.
Thanks for the pictures.
I dont wanna rush you.I am trying to make PCB acording your pictures.The probleme is that there is a lighted spot on the picture of the back side of the PCB.So please make another one when you have time.
Thanks.
nice work.Now the thread will be complete.I have 25c us,5c and one 50c somwhere.
But my results with 25c and 27dd that is on my test setup are not so good.
We will see
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TikTak, Simon,
Some more shots....
MolzarAttached Files- ImageFile686.JPG (20.8 KB, 1805 views)
- ImageFile687.JPG (22.5 KB, 5235 views)
- ImageFile688.JPG (22.5 KB, 1778 views)
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- ImageFile690.JPG (22.9 KB, 1782 views)
- ImageFile691.JPG (19.0 KB, 1777 views)
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- ImageFile693.JPG (19.8 KB, 1741 views)
- ImageFile694.JPG (20.8 KB, 1731 views)
- 111_1109.JPG (948.2 KB, 1917 views)
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Thanks for additional pictures!
Now: for people to help with verifying circuit schematic, the best (in fact required) pictures would be one of front and one of back, taken exactly perpendicular to board from a distance with zoom. The pictures should include the board edges (for registration/allignment of pictures). Of course it would help if exactly same distance for both shots, but we can probably adjust size with software if resolution is good. Perpendicular angle is critical.
The reason you want long distance with zoom is to reduce the "parallax" distortion -- but not too big a problem if both pictures taken from same distance and angle. Also perpendicular to board very important as mentioned.
Your other pictures are excellent to help identify the parts and various wiring to pots, switches, etc.
Thank you very much for taking time to share info on original TGS, very exciting to see it and compare to other reverse-engineered info.
Cheers,
-SB
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Originally posted by Molzar View PostFred,
Here ya go!
Originally posted by simonbaker View PostThanks for additional pictures!
The reason you want long distance with zoom is to reduce the "parallax" distortion -- but not too big a problem if both pictures taken from same distance and angle. Also perpendicular to board very important as mentioned.
Thank you very much for taking time to share info on original TGS, very exciting to see it and compare to other reverse-engineered info.
Cheers,
-SB
Regards,
Fred.
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Originally posted by Fred View PostThanks again Molzar!
I think to scan it would be easy and would give reliable results for an accurate PCB.And it should be possible as there is no wires beloa the PCB.
Regards,
Fred.
-SB
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Hi guys,
Problem with scan is are standoffs peined into pcb on component side and soldered other side, not removeable. I tried scan not useful image, I say this before.
What else you need?, photos show good enough for routing. Components are layed out close to original component layout (below)(Kurtie100) who ever made must have original TGS. That why values on component layout is more accurate than schematic.
To make exact copy I think impossible (without disassembling the pcb)
I not have finer equipment for photos. So no "telephoto" pics. Let me know what you not figure out and I help.
MolzarAttached Files
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Hi
Hi,
Molzar.
Thank you very much.
I still cant see some wirements.But this is more than enought for now.
I have doubts that there is a small mistake somewhere.In ower PCB that we have for TGS.So I wanna redraw it according your pictures.
Why you think that exact copy cant be made according the pictures?This is one side PCB and almost everithing can be seen.So I think that wont be so hard.
I will post here when I have progress.
And will ask you if I miss something.
Thanks.
see you.
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Golden Sabre ground adjust
Hello, Firstly , thank you for the loan of the circuit board pic.
Sorry if this is a little off topic.
I have re-calibrated my golden sabre to accept 8 inch double DD widescan coil by passing a 1 inch piece of ferrite passed the coil at a distance of approx 1 inch untill signal 'spits'. However my Golden Sabre is a little chattery at sensitivity 9 and 10 is this normal?
My second question is how do I fit a manual ground balance pot, do I solder 2 wires at the arrows running to a pot?Attached Files
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Originally posted by Molzar View PostHi guys,
Problem with scan is are standoffs peined into pcb on component side and soldered other side, not removeable. I tried scan not useful image, I say this before.
What else you need?, photos show good enough for routing. Components are layed out close to original component layout (below)(Kurtie100) who ever made must have original TGS. That why values on component layout is more accurate than schematic.
To make exact copy I think impossible (without disassembling the pcb)
I not have finer equipment for photos. So no "telephoto" pics. Let me know what you not figure out and I help.
Molzar
Board should be in exact center of photo, exactly facing the camera (perpendicular). Maybe use books, etc. to prop up board and camera. I know, a pain in the @$$. Then make sure focused and well lit, then gently press shutter button. Do same for both sides of board.
The idea is that we can help make schematic by matching top and bottom photo of board using software like Photoshop so we can easily match components to circuit traces on other side. Just to give you some help.
But it's up to you, we appreciate all info.
Cheers,
-SB
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Originally posted by grayfray View PostHello, Firstly , thank you for the loan of the circuit board pic.
Sorry if this is a little off topic.
I have re-calibrated my golden sabre to accept 8 inch double DD widescan coil by passing a 1 inch piece of ferrite passed the coil at a distance of approx 1 inch untill signal 'spits'. However my Golden Sabre is a little chattery at sensitivity 9 and 10 is this normal?
My second question is how do I fit a manual ground balance pot, do I solder 2 wires at the arrows running to a pot?. I think Ivconic even recommends using a shielded cable for the connector to the pot, with the shield connected to the outer case (or pot body?) and two inner wires running between the pot and board? Not sure, check with Ivconic.
Chatter not matter if you get good depth at lower sensitivity. What do you get with air test with sensitivity set to reduce chatter?
You must take outdoors to test best, indoors Tesoro MDs will chatter easily, too much interference from electrical wiring I guess.
Also you may not need to be strict with ferrite calibration -- you may get better performance by not balancing quite so well -- testing outdoors in real soil you hunt in probably best, play with balance there. Just my ideas, see what others say.
Cheers!
-SB
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reply
Originally posted by simonbaker View PostIf that is a two terminal pot, yes.. if three terminal pot, make sure you find the two terminals that are connected. I think Ivconic even recommends using a shielded cable for the connector to the pot, with the shield connected to the outer case (or pot body?) and two inner wires running between the pot and board? Not sure, check with Ivconic.
Chatter not matter if you get good depth at lower sensitivity. What do you get with air test with sensitivity set to reduce chatter?
You must take outdoors to test best, indoors Tesoro MDs will chatter easily, too much interference from electrical wiring I guess.
Also you may not need to be strict with ferrite calibration -- you may get better performance by not balancing quite so well -- testing outdoors in real soil you hunt in probably best, play with balance there. Just my ideas, see what others say.
Cheers!
-SB
re-calibrated outside and everythingis fine, I recalibrated using some earlier settings with discrim on 1
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