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  • Hi,
    anyone have/had experiences with this product ?

    It's a fast epoxy for model airplanes... 9oz total...(about 250gr) my only thought related to problems is about the peak of temperature... cause 30 minutes mean an hi-peak... some temp. fixing can break... some plastic melt etc

    Anyone knows ?

    Best regards,
    Max
    Attached Files

    Comment


    • Originally posted by ivconic View Post
      With or without coil, you are always welcomed here Nakky!
      Regards!
      Ivconic,very nice of you,I will keep in mind,I am serious think about it.What is the best time of the year to come.Grt Nakky.

      Comment


      • Summer of course. Winter is ugly here, to cold for my tatse. Not possible to prospect due lot of snow (i live deep in mountains)...In summer there are a lot of snakes but who cares about them? I dont...
        Regards!

        Comment


        • June,Jully and Avgust are best for prospecting here...

          Comment


          • Max, i was thinking to mix graphite powder with some plastic and make mass to fill up coil housings. Than must put a piece of naked wire in it and later connect to gnd...What do you think? All those to get rid off Al foil finally...

            Comment


            • Originally posted by ivconic View Post
              Max, i was thinking to mix graphite powder with some plastic and make mass to fill up coil housings. Than must put a piece of naked wire in it and later connect to gnd...What do you think? All those to get rid off Al foil finally...
              Hi,
              I've done before... using epoxy and also acrylic-based varnish.
              My results were no good, the problem is related to the fact epoxy and varnish are not conductive and so when grains of graphite mix with them grains are partially covered by insulant and so you lose some contacts between them.

              As far I remember also big quantities of graphite are needed for low resistance maybe 1Kg for 2liters solution or the like.

              Some are still in production like maybe acquadag or oildag varnishes.

              Preparing at home is possible but you need pure tannic-acid and lot of graphite powder.

              I've found much better using graphite-based spray... very very good like Contakt's products (from the Nederlands?) or other brands too. Very thin film... very good conductivity in our range of interest for VLFs.

              Problem is that now a 300mL can costs 10-15euros... and also spaying that stuff is really unhealthy and dangerous for lungs etc if you don't use a good mask/breather... too many micro-particles cause it's colloidal dispersion of graphite in solvents (ether) and + some fixing agent (acryl most of the times).

              You can find similar stuff sold for fishing-rods... carbonium type... as lubricants and protective paint: it's about the same thing... conductive and good for shieldings... and price is lower than electronics products.

              Same thing for some other mechanics lubricant spray...all the same: colloidal graphite in ether.

              For homebrew... I've found a pure graphite power very good... used as lubricant for ball-bearing stuff and similar. If you first pass acryl laquer and then before it dry you leave power drop over it then you'll make good things.
              After that I found I need to "align" power grains with a piece of paper scrub... after total dry (20minutes)... results are good but too work and care needed for great surfaces and spray is much better.

              Kind regards,
              Max

              Comment


              • Hi...
                I wrote many times "power" instead of "powder"... damn!

                Have to drop keyboard in the trash can or drink less beer at evening.

                (but I like "oktober fest" very much )

                Kind regards,
                Max
                Attached Files

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Max View Post
                  Hi...
                  I wrote many times "power" instead of "powder"... damn!

                  Have to drop keyboard in the trash can or drink less beer at evening.

                  (but I like "oktober fest" very much )

                  Kind regards,
                  Max
                  Beer or the girls.Grt Nakky.

                  Comment


                  • Hi Ivconic.
                    Try to put graphite powder into nitro varnish, varnish it, then wait to dry about 24 hours.
                    I've also tried to do that but not at coil yet. First try it on some other material. Hmmm.. nitro varnish.. did I wrote it properly on english? If not, please correct it . U pitanju je nitro lak naravno.
                    Regards!

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by nakky View Post
                      Beer or the girls.Grt Nakky.
                      Both. (not these of the picture of course... they are from oktober fest website )

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by Hush View Post
                        Hi Ivconic.
                        Try to put graphite powder into nitro varnish, varnish it, then wait to dry about 24 hours.
                        I've also tried to do that but not at coil yet. First try it on some other material. Hmmm.. nitro varnish.. did I wrote it properly on english? If not, please correct it . U pitanju je nitro lak naravno.
                        Regards!
                        Also water based is possible... aquadag or something is the commercial name... recipe is (about):

                        -demineralized water
                        -graphite (very fine and pure powder)
                        -tannic acid (the same of wine... and tea but pure and concentrated)

                        The mix and exact parts I don't remember... but tannic acid used to break particles of graphite into colloidal particles size...in the water.
                        All stuff must be mixed at moderate temperature... heat make it easy the melt of graphite grains into small colloidal size agglomerates.

                        Best regards,
                        Max

                        Comment


                        • Last time i've been in Munich was in 1987. Long time ago, but still remember that they washed streets with beer, early in the morning.....Funny, at the time i gone there especially to buy new computer - Amiga 500!!! I had Schneider CPC6128+CTM664...and decided to buy Amiga 500 due much better performances. Schneider 6128 was 8-bit machine, but Amiga was among first 16-bit machines than!!! What a step it was!!! But....! Amiga is lost in time and Schneider CPC6128 is still alive and kicking...i have it here at my workshop. From time to time i switch it ON just to fill up capacitors and "refresh" circuitry....Still is in good shape,workable.... I wrote so many stuff than, in Locomotive Basic!!! SSSHeeeeeshhh!!! What a history!
                          Also i do have AtariST520 in excellent shape too....But my first computer was ZX Spectrum in 1981. Than C64 in 1982. Than CPC6128....
                          Now i have Siemens&Fujitsu 64-bit....blah,blah....
                          What a history hah!?
                          Thanks Zemljak! I'll try that...
                          Regards!

                          Comment


                          • Hi all,
                            I've made some little tests with different ic as preamp ...cause my epoxy is really hardened now... seems a rock

                            Ok... here the results with TGS-clone+255*137mm DD coil

                            Preformace are referred to that I got with LF353 in place, that so it's 100% (or the unit):

                            MC33178 very weak detection at few cms from coil, noise bursts present
                            TLC2262CP detection at 25-30% (bad) for a copper-nickel item, few noise at max sens
                            NE5532 detection at 70% (medium) for the same copper-nickel, no noise at all
                            TL082 detection at 80-90% (good) , same coin (1/2 crown), noise bursts
                            LF353 maximum detection (100%) , same coin, some erratic noise at max sens (really few)

                            At 100% coin is detected at 38 cm loud.

                            So seems that LF353 is really tailored here on the TGS!

                            The total failure of MC33178 is really strange to me... cause I got very good results with it on bandidoII... but that's life.

                            Best regards,
                            Max

                            Comment


                            • Yes i also noticed that TL082 can be used there. You said 80-90%...i'll dare to say 95%...
                              For JRC2068 than should be 90%....
                              Havent tested 4558,1458,4559...simillars...

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Max View Post
                                TL082 detection at 80-90% (good) , same coin (1/2 crown), noise bursts
                                LF353 maximum detection (100%) , same coin, some erratic noise at max sens (really few)

                                At 100% coin is detected at 38 cm loud.

                                Best regards,
                                Max
                                Hi Max. Who is the dimension of the coin ???
                                Regards

                                Comment

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